西班牙和葡萄牙
Long regarded as a source of inexpensive reds with only Rioja standing above the parapet, Spain now produces a plethora of exciting wines encompassing myriad different styles. Fresh whites, especially from the Albariño in the Rías Baixas and Verdejo in Rueda, have extended the choice. There have also been interesting developments in Jerez in developing small-scale bottlings of the highest quality Sherry at remarkably affordable prices.
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Barbadillo 15 Yr Palo Cortado "Obispo Gascon"
The NV Palo Cortado Obispo Gascon, produced from Palomino grapes averaging 20 years old, and shows the telltale nose of Palo Cortado with its lactic touch and an off-dry nose of apricots, blond tobacco and spices. The palate is dominated by the salty notes (common to all Barbadillo wines), sharp, medium-bodied, with great length.
{***} {region}Jerez{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {ratings} []The Wine Advocate:: 92/100 {ratings} {***}
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Barbadillo, VORS 30Yr Old Palo Cortado "Obispo Gascon"
Founded in 1821, Barbadillo is a seventh-generation family owned and operated bodega based in Sanlucar de Barrameda. VORS is a rare category denoting a ‘Very Old Rare Sherry Eover 30 years of age and this limited release bottling is taken from the third criadera of their 120-cask solera. It is darker in colour, drier and more intense in aroma and flavour than the classic Palo Cortado Obispo Gascon, with fantastically complex notes of citrus, grilled nuts, spices and a distinctive salty finish. This pairs incredibly well with almonds, mature cheeses and cured meats.
{***} {region}Jerez{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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1998 Vina Ardanza, Reserva, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
This blend of Tempranillo (75%) and Granacha (25%) is deep cherry red. The aroma is a perfect harmony from ripe fruit and the maturation in American oak casks. The flavor is powerful, spicy, round, enveloping and vigorous. All the varied flavours are bound together in elegant harmony. The aftertaste is long, pleasurable and insistent.
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2009 La Granja, Gran Reserva, Remelluri, Rioja, Spain
Mid crimson. Very similar aroma to the 2010. Perhaps a little more red cherry. Leaner on the palate, less flesh, more streamlined but not lacking in fruit. Dry, mineral and super-fine tannins, long dusty finish.
Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com (August 2015)
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Berry Bros. & Rudd William Pickering, Tawny Port by Quinta do Noval
The latest addition to our Own Selection Port range, blended from some of Quinta do Noval’s finest Tawnies. Sophisticated nutty aromas and flavours give way to a beautifully layered texture and a fantastically long finish. Subtle yet complex, this is a warming and rewarding wine to enjoy alongside a large chunk of blue Dolcelatte cheese and a warm fire.
This exquisite Quinta do Noval has chocolate, tobacco and raisin, with fruitcake on the finish.
Will Lyons, Sunday Times
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2017 Berry Bros. & Rudd Late Bottled Vintage Port by Quinta de la Rosa
This LBV comes from one of only a handful of “declared” vintages from the last decade. As such, it is characterised by its concentration, elegance and depth of flavour. The nose is elegant, with fine black and red berries, Christmas-cake spice and a light touch of fresh vanilla.
The palate is impressively restrained, the sweet blackberry and raspberry fruit balanced by more complex touches of orange peel and toasted walnuts. The finish is long and refreshing for a Port; all is so well balanced, making it very easy to take another sip.
Catriona Felstead MW, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2000 Quinta do Noval, Port, Portugal
Dark crimson, although the rim looks more youthful and bluer than that of the Nacional 2000. Lifted nose with strong purple-fruit flavours. Much softer and sweeter on the mid-palate than the 1997 although there are marked, almost jagged tannins on the finish. Some blackcurrant notes. Youthful and without quite the excitement of the 1997.
Drink 2020 - 2045
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (December 2013)
2000 Quinta do Noval, Port, PortugalVintage Port2000 Quinta do Noval, Port, PortugalBottle Price 75cl $815 -
2012 Imperial, Gran Reserva, C.V.N.E., Rioja, Spain
The nose of this wine is delightful. Incredibly gentle and beguiling, in a way that all great wines should be. There is spice and tobacco, with a hint of wood smoke. The palate is soft and velvety, with waves of complexity led by juicy plum and smooth vanilla. This will only become more enticing with age.
Drink now to 2040+
Paul Keating, Private Account Manager (November 2019)
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1989 Viña Albina, Reserva, Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja
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1989 Campo Viejo, Gran Reserva, Rioja
A reassuringly balanced Rioja wine which retains fruity character after being passionately crafted over the course of five years. Balanced with smoky and spicy notes from oak.
1989 Campo Viejo, Gran Reserva, RiojaRioja1989 Campo Viejo, Gran Reserva, RiojaBottle Price 75cl $525 -
1985 El Coto de Rioja Imaz Reserva (Magnum)
This lighter-styled, mature Rioja shows just a hint of brown at the edges. An initial light sweaty note blows off quickly, revealing appealing dried cherry, spice and wood aromas and flavors, and an elegant, balanced mouthfeel.
{***}{region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink now{maturity-text} {vintage}1985{vintage}{***}
1985 El Coto de Rioja Imaz Reserva (Magnum)Rioja1985 El Coto de Rioja Imaz Reserva (Magnum)Bottle Price 150cl $805 -
1981 Viña Monty, Gran Reserva, Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja
Situated in Spain's prestigious Rioja Alta region of Rioja, Bodegas Montecillo was first established in 1874, and has been operated by the Osborne family since 1973. Along with nearby producers like Lopez de Heredia, Bodegas Montecillo makes traditionally styled reds based on Tempranillo that are aged in untoasted barrels coopered on-site. 1981 was an excellent vintage in Rioja, particularly for producers in Rioja Alta, and the best wines stand the test of time. From Decanter: "This was a 'nearly' year when quite a few major producers made excellent wines, most notably Faustino, Luís Cañas, Salceda, Montecillo, Olarra, Lopez-Heredia and Ondarre. Gran Reserva wine was made from 12% of the grapes harvested - more than in the grade-5 year 1982 - which tells its own story."
{***} {region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1981{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}
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1973 Royal, Reserva, Bodegas Franco-Españolas, Rioja
{***} {region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1973{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}
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1997 Viña Real, Gran Reserva, C.V.N.E.
Bodegas C.V.N.E. is still owned and run by the Real de Asua family whose ancestors established it back in 1879. Its full name is Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España but it more commonly known as "coonay".
In the late 1980s the firm built a spanking new stainless steel winery in the town of Haro and is now producing thoroughly "modern" style Rioja wines. Both red and whites are produced and their white Rioja is one of the few remaining heavily-oaked examples on the market today.
The 2 different ranges of C.V.N.E, the Vina Real and Imperial, are rich, full-bodied Riojas, with the Reservas and Grand Reservas being some of the most long-lived in the region today.{***} {region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1997{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}
1997 Viña Real, Gran Reserva, C.V.N.E.Rioja1997 Viña Real, Gran Reserva, C.V.N.E.Bottle Price 75cl $595 -
1973 Etiqueta Blanca, Marques de Murrieta Ygay
Marqués de Murrieta was one of two pioneers in the production of Rioja wines, this bodega was established in 1852 and is proudly old-fashioned in its approach. All the grapes are sourced from the bodega's own vineyards at Ygay near Logroño, which were recently extended to 300ha. Traditional grape varities are grown Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, Garnacha Blanca and Viura, many of which have now disappeared from the region. The wines of Murrieta wines are produced by traditional methods, ageing their wines in wood for a minimum of two years (much longer than at any other Bodegas) and there are 14,000 casks for that purpose.
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1986 Imperial, Gran Reserva, C.V.N.E., Rioja
Bodegas C.V.N.E. is still owned and run by the Real de Asua family whose ancestors established it back in 1879. Its full name is Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España but it more commonly known as "coonay".
In the late 1980s the firm built a spanking new stainless steel winery in the town of Haro and is now producing thoroughly "modern" style Rioja wines. Both red and whites are produced and their white Rioja is one of the few remaining heavily-oaked examples on the market today.
The 2 different ranges of C.V.N.E, the Vina Real and Imperial, are rich, full-bodied Riojas, with the Reservas and Grand Reservas being some of the most long-lived in the region today.{***} {region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1986{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}
1986 Imperial, Gran Reserva, C.V.N.E., RiojaRioja1986 Imperial, Gran Reserva, C.V.N.E., RiojaBottle Price 75cl $1,185 -
1995 Viña Vial, Reserva, Federico Paternina
{***} {region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1995{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}
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1986 Faustino V, Reserva
{***} {region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1986{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}
1986 Faustino V, ReservaRioja1986 Faustino V, ReservaBottle Price 75cl $385 -
2009 Warre's, Port
Warre's, the oldest British port house, is commemorating the bicentenary of the liberation Oporto by the Anglo-Portuguese army with 500 cases of their 2009 vintage port. Each bottle is numbered and a donation of veteran charities will be made for every case sold. It's a crime to drink this elegant and splendid wine now, because it can live for 20 years with ease. But it tastes incredible already, so I won't tell anyone if you are tempted to crack it open before then.
A selection of the best wines and hampers, Money Week, 9 December 2011 Of the famous Symington triptych ( the others being Dow and Graham) only Warre has declared in 2009, and only in strictly limited volumes, reflecting both the inherent low yielding nature of the fruit and the extensive selection that has informed all stages of its gestation.
Made to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the Duke of Wellington’s liberation of Oporto, a dramatic adventure in which a certain William Warre played a prominent part, there will be a generous donation from every bottle sold made to the Help The Heroes Charity.
Sourced principally from the cooler and higher vineyards at Cavadinha, Retiro and Telhada, this is a wonderfully elegant, aromatic Warre, possibly less dense of structure than some, but making up for that by the beauty and integrity of its architectural design. A velvety palate and a rich peppery finish underline this wine’s pedigree.2009 Warre's, PortPort2009 Warre's, PortBottle Price 75cl $405 -
1991 El Coto de Rioja Imaz Reserva (Magnum)
This lighter-styled, mature Rioja shows just a hint of brown at the edges. An initial light sweaty note blows off quickly, revealing appealing dried cherry, spice and wood aromas and flavors, and an elegant, balanced mouthfeel.
{***}{region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink now{maturity-text} {vintage}1991{vintage}{***}
1991 El Coto de Rioja Imaz Reserva (Magnum)Rioja1991 El Coto de Rioja Imaz Reserva (Magnum)Bottle Price 150cl $565 -
2007 El Pison, Artadi, Rioja
The secret of Tempranillo seems to reside in its hidden depth; gregarious and initially appearing far too attractive to be remotely serious, this wine gradually revels the true depth of its personality; the black fruits are ripe of course , but are backed by notes of laurel, licorice, garrigue and forest floor; the tannins are finely-tuned needless to say, but are swathed in a fine minerality; all in all this is clearly very fine indeed. Juan Carlos thinks it more closely resembles 2004 than 2001, but is sure that it will be better than both of them.
{***} {region}Rioja{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2007{vintage} {ratings} []The Wine Advocate:: 98/100 {ratings}
2007 El Pison, Artadi, RiojaRioja2007 El Pison, Artadi, RiojaBottle Price 75cl $2,180