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Burgundy produces some of the most regal Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines in the world. With 100 different appellations, myriad individual vineyards and more than 3,000 individual producers, around 15 million cases are produced there annually from 26,500ha of vines. Burgundy has five sub-regions: Chablis in the Yonne department; the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in the Côte d'Or; and the Chalonnais and Mâconnais in the Saone-et-Loire.
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2019 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes, 1er Cru, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
This is from the northern end of Chambolle, immediately under Bonnes Mares, with which it shares some personality: this is a stronger style of Chambolle. There’s plenty of intent about the wine, and it has the shoulders to carry it off. A forthright and assertive wine, the slightly ferric tannins play a key role, underpinned by spicy oak. Drink 2027-2038.
{***} {region}Chambolle-Musigny{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2019{vintage}
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2013 Clos-St Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot
A graceful tint of pale purple. Floral, with appealing sweet red fruit, clearly some concentration to the cherry and raspberry fruit, while there is clearly much more to emerge later on.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer{***}{region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2013{vintage}{***}
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2018 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
{***}{region} Vougeot {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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1998 Nuits-St Georges, Les Saint Georges, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Gouges
The 1998 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has an impressive bouquet, one that is both fresh and focused with redcurrant, juniper, clove and light cigar box notes. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine and noble tannin. The texture is quite chalky. There is a surfeit of energy and tension towards the finessed finish. Bon vin! Tasted at the Gouges retrospective at La Cabotte.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}1999{vintage}
{ratings}[] Burghound:: 91-93/100
[] Wine Advocate:: 89-91/100
[] Jancis Robinson:: 17.5/20
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2016 Nuits-St Georges Rouge, Clos de la Maréchale, 1er Cru, Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier
The yield is down by 40 percent but Frédéric likes its character. The wine is structured, with a lovely fresh top note, a hint of spice; it’s neat and controlled with a bit of crunch. This is very silky for a Nuits-St Georges. Frédéric kindly also showed the 2015 at the same time. By comparison it is full-bodied and savoury, clearly a wine for the long term and needing time. The 2016 will be drinking beautifully until the 2015 is ready. Drink 2021-2030.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Wine Advocate:: 93/100
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2018 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Cras, 1er Cru, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
The vine comes from a great gene pool. It is regular and has many millerandage berries. The wine has the typical structure of Nuits-Saint-Georges, but the tannins are elegant and reflect the near Vosne-Romanée. The Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras is tasty and dynamic, always with a good balance. The flesh, very present, with notes of juicy black fruit (blackberries, blueberries, blackcurrants) is enriched with floral nuances (elder, heather) and spicy.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2016 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Boudots, 1er Cru, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Pierre-Yves Colin described the 2016 vintage as 'one where the growing season is still painful to think about as we had almost no vines that were spared from frost damage. It's depressing to know at the very beginning that your yields are going to be seriously reduced, which in this case means that they were off between -20 and -90%. Add to this a virulent attack of mildew that kept all of us constantly on edge as the wet weather made it difficult to treat exactly when we wanted. Thankfully the second half of July, August and September were basically ideal and in the end the vines managed to ripen what fruit remained to more than respectable levels. In fact, the way I choose to look at it is that the fine weather in the second half of the growing season didn't save the quantities but it did save the quality. We chose to begin picking on the 22nd of September and the fruit was so clean that there was essentially no sorting of any consequence. Sugars were very good as were the associated acid levels. Despite this some wines refused to cooperate in the cellar as some didn't want to finish their alcoholic fermentations and others balked at finishing their malos. As to the quality, I would describe my 2016s as ranging from very good to excellent though they're not monuments.
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}
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2020 Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, 1er Cru, Pierre Girardin
Part of a contract by, which they run the vineyards and then buy the grapes. The vines are well situated at the top, according to Pierre. 90% whole bunch vinification. Rich dense purple, with a rather reductive nose at the moment. Very concentrated colour and the nose cleans up. This is a dense Suchots, which doesn’t close down in the middle, but the tannins are a little rougher than expected at the finish Ethough this might be the reduction speaking. If that is the explanation then this wine may well merit a fourth star rating.
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2020{vintage}{***}
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Le Clos, Domaine Duroché
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos was the first parcel that Duroché picked. It delivers plenty of raspberry, wild strawberry and damp earthy aromas, though perhaps not showing quite the same delineation as the Gevrey Champs at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, a lovely bead of acidity and more flesh than the Champs, as well as a little more depth on the finish. Very approachable in style, this should drink nicely over the next 12 to 15 years. - Vinous
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
The vines for this cuvée are 70 years old on average, with some nudging 100 years. The parcels are neighbours to the Grands and Premiers Crus of Griottes, Petite Chapelle, Crais and Champeaux. There is a step up in concentration versus the regular bottling, with greater detail and complexity, and a lovely salivating freshness to finish. Drink 2024-2030.
{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text}
{vintage}2018{vintage}
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2021 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Guyon
This wine is from three parcels in Vosne-Romanée: a generic section of Combe d’Orveaux, La Croix Blanche and Les Pâquiers. In 2021, it also has a third of the production of the village Vosne included in it. The wine is bursting with fruit, with high tones of cherry and cranberry. These flavours are all carried through to the palate which is full and rounded with a nice sapid twist.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Berry Bros. & Rudd
2021 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Guyon2021 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine GuyonBottle Price 75cl $468 -
2021 Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Peuillets, 1er Cru, Domaine Guyon, Burgundy
Although it is from a sandy vineyard, this wine always surprises with its creamy texture. This is even more apparent since Jean-Oierre's adoption of his en pont and nuages techniques. The wine is very floral this year, alongside the signature creaminess. A mineral grip unfolds on the finish making it a very complete wine. Drink 2025-2035.
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2021 Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Jean Fournier, Burgundy
Laurent Fournier has achieved a lot since taking charge of the domaine established by his father, Jean, in the 1960s. In 2011, he was voted the Cotes de Nuits’ young vigneron of the year. He has since dedicated much of his considerable energy campaigning to establish Premiers Crus in Marsannay. Although he has begun leasing parcels in the Côte de Beaune, Gevrey-Chambertin and Clos de Vougeot, Laurent’s heart remains in Marsannay. All of the vineyards are farmed organically, with certification
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2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Champs de Morjot, Domaine Philippe Colin, Burgundy
Champ de Morjot' Rouge 2021 is made from 100% Pinot Noir from Chassagne-Montrachet. Juicy, crunchy, and full of ripe fruit flavour; it has vibrant notes of strawberry, juicy raspberry, vanilla and cherry. The palate is firm but smooth, balanced with a good level of acidity and more fruity flavours along with some oak and earth. Drinking well now, but will only get better over the next 5-10 years.
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2017 Beaune, Vignes Franches, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon, Burgundy
This parcel of old vines is situated at the top of the vineyard, alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches. The aromas are of red and black fruit, with some spice adding complexity. On the palate, it is all cherry, with real richness, plenty of power and chalky but ripe tannins. The finish is creamy and floral. Drink 2022-2027.
After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.
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2001 Griotte-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Ponsot, Burgundy
In contrast to the mildly odd nose of the Chapelle, this is perfumed, elegant and cool with its ultra-pure aromas of all but fully mature red berry fruit, underbrush and soft earth tones. There is really lovely detail and plenty of minerality on the strikingly intense medium weight flavors that terminate in a slightly austere finish that is less generous than that of the Chapelle.
I like the balance and punch though some may find this to be a bit more austere than they prefer. Note that for my taste this could easily be drunk now but I would be inclined to hold this for another 2 to 3 years in the hopes that the finale will flesh out just a bit more.
Drink from 2016 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2015)
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2017 Échezeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot, Burgundy
Initially this just delivers a huge amount of sensual ripeness. Hedonistic, yes, but there is also more grip and structure than the first impression suggest. As on his Clos de Vougeot, Étienne has been working hard here to deliver more finesse, with evident success. Drink 2025-2032.
Jean Grivot, whose name continues to appear on the labels, took over from his father Gaston in 1955 and handed the estate on to his son Étienne in the early 1980s. Étienne, married to Marielle Bize from Savigny, has been through a number of incarnations as winemaker here. When he took over, his father’s style was for gentle, graceful wines which perhaps were a little weak in the lesser vintages. Since then Étienne has found his own voice and made a range of increasingly fine wines. The drive to reduce yields and fine-tune his work in the vineyards and cellar since the mid-2000s continues to enhance quality. The succession to the next generation is now well underway, with Mathilde and Hubert increasingly influential, under their father’s experienced and wise guidance.
Here the decision was to wait for a bit of rain, to get the skins and berries fully ripe. The rain did the trick and the resulting wines are among the best of the Côte this year. Adjectives tumbled from Étienne during the tasting: seductive and precise, glamorous, graphite and saline, luminous and suave. We both agreed we rather liked “resonant”. Volumes are up 50 percent but Étienne warned us that the run of short vintages has depleted their reserves, and as such allocations this year will not move up in line. -
2020 Rully Rouge, La Chaume, Jean-Yves Devevey, Burgundy
Part of the vineyard has a red, iron-rich soil, and so is planted with Pinot Noir. As last year, Jean-Yves used 100% whole-bunch. The aromatics have a roundness, with less red fruit and a touch of spice. Rully’s broad shoulders carry the 13.5% alcohol comfortably. As always here, there’s no trace of any chewy Rully tannins.
Drink 2023 - 2028
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2019 Marsannay Rouge, Cuvée Saint-Urbain, Domaine Jean Fournier, Burgundy
This classy cuvée has a floral and spice-accented bouquet. Blended from around the appellation, there’s 25% whole-bunch; élevage is in 500-litre barrels, one-quarter of which are new. The palate invites with juicy red fruit and supple tannins. Cooling acidity provides balance; it’s a very complete wine. It’ll drink well early but can be cellared with confidence.
Drink 2021 - 2027
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2019 Berry Bros. & Rudd Nuits-St Georges by Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy
This 2019 vintage is the best yet of our Nuits-St Georges from Benjamin Leroux. The nose is a heady perfume of dark berry fruit, violets and white pepper. The palate is creamy and succulent with a hint of vanilla. The tannins are like crushed velvet. This would be a perfect pairing with spiced lamb or lentil dishes.
Drink now until 2028
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2019 Berry Bros. & Rudd Gevrey-Chambertin by Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy
Our Gevrey-Chambertin has once again been made for us by Domaine Rossignol-Trapet. Their venerable old vines cover all areas of Gevrey-Chambertin, giving a rich picture of the appellation. The warm and sunny 2019 vintage has given a spicy, dark-fruited expression of the village with silky tannins and an irresistible floral perfume. This is an ideal partner to ripe cheeses or tagine.
Drink 2024 - 2028
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2006 Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, 1er Cru, Domaine SylvieEsmonin, Burgundy
A heavenly, heady bouquet enthrals the nose whilst supple, vigorous black fruit flavours dance across the palate. This may have a firm, tannic finish but there is so much fruit here that this will develop beautifully over a decade or more.
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2009 Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Burgundy
Burgundy 2009 Best Buys – Grand Cru Wines
Thibault Liger-Belair is one of our most popular Burgundy wine growers; he makes brilliant, chunky wines and is a lovely chap to boot. Thibault has a wonderful plot in Clos Vougeot and his almost spiritual approach to winemaking focuses the class further. This is big, and very tightly knit at the moment – a wine with a great future ahead of it.
(Joss Fowler, Cellar Plan Account Manager)
This is a really rewarding Clos de Vougeot to put away for the future. It is lively, delicious and very full but not over-ripe, with tight tannins neatly woven alongside a real sense of power.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer) -
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux St-Jacques, 1er Cru, Domaine Denis Mortet,Burgundy
From five plots the vineyard, this is a wine for which Arnaud never includes any whole bunches. It has a wonderful, floral, red berry lift to the nose, while the palate is defined by the acidity and ethereal energy. Still discreet and hidden, this needs time to open. The new oak (70 percent) is so well-integrated as to be barely noticeable. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The domaine was founded by Charles Mortet, but rose to fame with the exceptional 1993 vintage crafted by his son Denis who tragically died at the age of 51 in January 2006. Denis believed with a deep passion that the work in the vineyard was everything. He has been succeeded by his equally, indeed exceptionally, talented son Arnaud, now also with the assistance of his sister Clémence. At the domaine everything starts in the vineyard, where every measure is taken to produce the finest, ripest fruit possible, creating a style of wine which, as Denis used to say is “a pleasure to drink young or old”. Arnaud Mortet is very happy with the quality of the 2016 vintage, explaining that its balanced profile with a mixture of ripeness and elegance will please everyone. Yields are very variable across the range, with anything from 30 to 70 percent of the crop having been lost to frost. Fortunately, mildew was not an issue as he acted swiftly to treat the vineyard when conditions began to deteriorate. He has generally used fewer whole bunches this year than in 2015. -
2017 Beaune, Les Grèves, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy
Mid purple with rather a savoury touch to the nose. Plenty of emphasis behind, some firm tannins, this is a concentrated masculine version of Grèves. Discreet, youthful, laid back. The fruit will cope with the tannins. Bottled with a DIAM 30 organic closure.
Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (September 2021)
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2017 Volnay, Les Brouillards, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy
The first red to be picked. 35 year old average age for the vines on sandy chalky soil, one third whole bunch vinification. Pretty mid purple, pretty and floral, more open than Grèves. No great weight but it is attractive and finishes with its floral perfume.
Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (November 2018) -
2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Amoureuses, 1er Cru, Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy
The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru was picked on September 8 and includes 40% whole cluster fruit. What I love about this Amoureuses is that it could not come from anywhere except this prestigious vineyard. The refined floral bouquet is sensual and nicely defined. The harmonious, feminine palate is beautifully balanced, displaying filigreed tannin and a precise, transparent finish that is intellectual as well as seductive. This is a beautifully crafted wine and vies with the Clos-de-Bèze as one of Drouhin’s finest 2017s. - Vinous
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2017 Beaune, Epenottes, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon, Burgundy
Dominique has this parcel on a fermage contract. It's an elegant expression of Beaune, with a bright purple colour, floral aromatics and rich fruit on the palate. The tannins are silky, seductive and perfectly integrated with the fruit. A wonderful, floral finish. Drink 2021-2026
After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit. -
2017 Volnay, Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur, Burgundy
Arguably the most complex and age-worthy wine in the cellar, this is very tight in its youth, with a little floral character poking through a muted nose before some stony minerals emerge. The palate is tightly structured with densely packed, stony tannins a touch of oak spice and some rich red fruit. This needs time to open up, but will reward those with patience. Drink 2024-2032.
François is keen to highlight the importance of the solidarity shown by the Côte’s vignerons at the end of April, when everyone came together to burn dampened bales and create cloud cover to ward off the frost. Without such action this could well have been another catastrophic yield. Having avoided this threat, the rest of the season was fairly straightforward with careful vineyard management and harvest began on the 30th August. He feels the whites are a mix of 2015 and 2014, while the reds are pretty and will drink well from an early age. -
2017 Pommard, Rugiens-Hauts, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy
Rugiens is arguably Pommard's greatest vineyard, of which the lower section is perhaps the finest, but Ben's plot is in the lower part of Rugiens-Hauts and thus very adjacent. This is a big, stern and meaty wine, with dense tannins, but perfume and rigour too. Very serious and age-worthy.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no ''black sheep'' in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap
Drink 2025 - 2030
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Beaune, Epenottes, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon, Burgundy
Low on the slope and bordering Pommard, this can be quite a durable wine. The vines were planted in 1985. The wine is full of strawberry fruit, but with a spicy edge; well-judged and nicely structured. Drink 2023-2030.
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2019 Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Chantal Remy, Burgundy
There are three-and-a-half barrels in 2019. This is a hauntingly perfumed wine, with notes of violet and rose petal. The palate continues the energetic theme with a crystalline focus and a vibrant, mineral finish. This is often a star performer in warmer vintages, and 2019 really suits the vineyard. Drink 2030-2045.
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2019 Monthélie, Pierre Boisson, Burgundy
Fruit for this Monthelie Rouge has an average vine age of 40 years sourced from three different parcels, Les Plantes, Les Longenes, and Les Sous Court. Vinification includes a 5 hours cold maceration before fermentaiton in stainless steel, before being pressed to barrel for 18 months in oak, 20% of which are new.
2019 Monthélie, Pierre Boisson, BurgundyMonthélie2019 Monthélie, Pierre Boisson, BurgundyBottle Price 75cl $428 -
2020 St Aubin, Derrière La Tour, 1er Cru, Jean-Claude Bachelet & Fils, Burgundy
From a south-facing vineyard immediately above the hamlet of Gamay, this delivers immediate pleasure. There is a pure expression of the redcurrant end of Pinot Noir’s spectrum, both aromatically and with the energy on the palate. This is more than a simple, pretty wine; there is a surprisingly well-layered palate, with more strawberry notes among the sapid tannins.
Drink 2023 - 2028
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2020 Corton, Perrières, Grand Cru, Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine, Burgundy
Enough wood to remark upon sets off ripe yet cool aromas of black cherry liqueur, newly turned earth and a whiff of smoked game. There is excellent verve and detail to the surprisingly fine and appealingly textured larger-scaled flavors that possess focused power on the firm, youthfully austere and impressively persistent finale. Drink through 2032+.- Burghound
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2020 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier, Burgundy
Fine crimson purple. The fruit comes across as a touch richer than the Chambolle, but still nicely in balance. No more than medium bodied, much more about finesse and balance, good acidity, peppery finish after the perfumed fresh strawberry fruit. -Jasper Morris MW
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2020 Saint-Aubin, Rouge, Domaine François Legros, Burgundy
The 2020 Saint-Aubin Rouge has an attractive bouquet with dark cherries and hints of blueberry, nicely defined. The palate is ripe and chewy on the entry with black plum and a touch of balsamic, quite firm on the finish but with decent length.
Drink 2023 - 2028
Neil Martin, Vinous.com (December 2021)
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2021 Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin Leroux
The element of this Bourgogne Rouge that comes from Benjamin Leroux’s own fruit was down 40% in the 2021 vintage, while the market price for grapes at this level was up 120% - so he had to buy carefully. Benjamin opted to use whole-bunch fermentation on the regular components of the blend, and is pleased with how the new purchases have fitted in. The wine is very pleasing and easy, with lots of soft and sweet red fruit flavours.
Drink 2022 - 2026
Berry Bros. & Rudd
2021 Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin LerouxBourgogne Rouge2021 Bourgogne Rouge, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75cl $388 -
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieille Vigne, Domaine Fourrier, Burgundy
From six different lieux-dits.
Here, too, there is a whiff of herbal tea character sitting atop the earthier and more sauvage-influenced red berry fruit aromas. The sleek and delicious medium-bodied flavours are not quite as rich, though they are more precise and more mineral-driven on the impressively long and well-balanced finale. This is a fine Gevrey Villages that is worth thinking about.
Drink from 2028 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2023)
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2011 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein
Fullish vibrant purple, with a svelte, smooth, appealing bouquet. There is plenty of oak apparent but it is totally married to the fruit. Very luscious, exactly as this wine should be, but with a lovely mineral thread through the middle. Lovely finish. This has class and elegance throughout, dressed in a rich velvet overcoat.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Buying Director{***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings} []Burghound:: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Vosne-Romanée, La Colombière, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, Burgundy
An even spicier nose flashes a dark aromatic profile that gives way to supple, round and easy-going flavors that possess very good mid-palate density, all wrapped in a dusty, firm and youthfully austere finish that exhibits just a bit more energy. *Outstanding, Top Value* - Burghound
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2015 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Duroché, Burgundy
The 2015 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, which included 50% whole bunch fruit, has a refined and elegant nose, quite backward and quite Mazi-Chambertin in style. This is not as outgoing as many other Charmes-Chambertin 2015s, yet I find it more cerebral. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent, fleshy and charming texture that seduces the senses. It does not quite deliver the depth of other grand crus on the finish, but it is endowed with presence and persistence, the whole bunch component lending another earthier, perhaps even rustic dimension compared to previous vintages. This is a very well-crafted Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. - Wine Advocate
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2015 Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur, 1er Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy
A fine, bright mid-purple, this has a restrained bouquet but then a palate laden with rich, ripe, supple fruit and a gorgeous mineral finish. This is as good as I have tasted here. There is an exceptional intensity of dark fruit, dry and dense, with similar tannins to ‘05 but a bit of the juiciness of 2010. Drink 2023-2030.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Nicolas and David Rossignol report a healthy crop in quality and quantity, though a little reduced in the Grands Crus. They began on 7th September, using around 50 percent whole bunches, and avoided any punching down during vinification as there was no need to search for extraction, preferring a daily pumping-over and aeration. As ever there is only a modest use of new oak and sulphur levels are kept low. They have made unquestionably brilliant wines this year. -
2014 Mazoyères-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy
Relatively subtle wood treatment allows the notably floral red berry fruit, humus and earth-inflected aromas to shine. There is excellent volume to the delicious and tension-filled medium-weight plus flavours that exhibit fine depth and length on the moderately austere and saline-inflected finish. This is quite firm and somewhat rustic and the supporting tannins aren't especially refined, so once again patience will be required.
Drink from 2026 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (April 2016)
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2012 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles, Domaine de la Vougeraie, Burgundy
Planted at 36,000 vines per hectare Les Evocelles must be among the highest-density plantings in France. As a result, the vines compete for water and nutrients producing small, highly flavoured berries. The wine shows ripe berries with rich cherry notes, the finesse of a fine tannic structure and a finish that continues for a very long time. The 100% whole clusters are easily blended with the ripeness of the fruit.
This superb domaine grows in reputation and in size: this year sees the first vintage of Nuits-St Georges, Clos de Thorey. Look out for even further additions in the next two years. Winemaker Pierre Vincent’s style is for lighter colours and very sensual wines, and he has done a cracking job again in 2012; a vintage which supported the plentiful use of whole bunch fermentation. The domaine is certified organic and fully biodynamic.
Drink now
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru, Philippe Pacalet
Philippe Pacalet buys grapes from a high site planted with old vines in Corton Bressandes, making the wine for only the second vintage in 2018. The grip and muscularity of the site combine nicely with the sappy, stemmy 100% whole bunches to produce a savoury, complex, chalky wine wit floral, red cherry and bramble fruit and the faintest echo of oak. (Tim Atkin)
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2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Aux Beaux Bruns, 1er Cru, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod
This was the first of Ghislaine’s vineyards to be harvested this year, sitting a bit lower on the slope. It’s a more opulent style, generous, but still with a good backbone of tannin, taking this element from its proximity to Morey. Drink 2022-2028.
Ghislaine Barthod’s domaine originated in the 1920s with Marcel Noëllat whose daughter married Gaston Barthod, a soldier stationed in Dijon who came to buy some wine and got the girl as well. He gave up military life for the vineyards in 1960. His daughter, Ghislaine, and her partner Louis Boillot bought their current premises overlooking Premier Cru Les Feusselottes in 1986. Though they share the team who work the vineyards, the vinification and commercial aspects of their businesses are kept completely separate. The domaine has an incomparable range of ChambolleMusigny terroirs, with eight separate Premier Cru bottlings.
Given the carnage here last year, one could have been concerned that yields might have been high, but these worries were needless. Although there was a certain amount of green harvesting on the younger vines, the old vines (of which there are lots here), if properly pruned and with excess buds eliminated, regulated themselves to reasonable yields well below 50hl/ha. The harvest started on 3rd September and was completed in eight days, with everything beautifully healthy. For Ghislaine, 2016 was about energy; 2017 is about purity. -
2012 Volnay, Clos des Chênes, 1er Cru, Domaine Michel Lafarge
Dark shades of blue/blackish fruit grace the palate in Lafarge's 2012 Volnay Clos des Chenes. This is an unusually supple, resonant young Clos des Chenes. Whereas the Caillerets possesses energy from its tannin and minerality, the Clos des Chenes is round and virtually seamless in texture, with all of the structural elements seemingly folded into the fruit. The 2012 is perhaps a bit atypical in its richness, but it is a real stunner just the same. - Vinous
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2021 Monthélie, 1er Cru, Domaine RamonetBeaune2021 Monthélie, 1er Cru, Domaine RamonetBottle Price 75cl $795
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2016 Volnay, Clos des Ducs, 1er Cru, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
Interestingly, this seems to possess elements of all three of the preceding wines as the cool and ultra-elegant nose exhibits a broad range of spice and floral elements on the black cherry and plum-suffused aromas. There is almost painful intensity to the chiseled, focused and stony medium weight flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the youthfully austere, powerful and very serious finish. This is very clearly built to age and a wine that should really not be touched for at least a decade. In a word, terrific. - Burghound
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2017 Pommard, Grands Epenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Michel Gaunoux
A more elegant nose offers up lovely aromatic layering that includes notes of cool red currant, dark raspberry, plum and freshly turned earth. There is more size, weight and richness to the larger-scaled flavours that possess a seductive texture before culminating in a naturally sweet, complex and sneaky long finish.
This, too, is very promising for the longer term, yet it is a wine that should be approachable after only 6 to 8 years. Drink from 2029 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (April 2020)
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
-
2017 Pommard 1er Cru, Grands Epenots, Pierre Morey
The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Epenots is showing beautifully from bottle offering up a deep bouquet of ripe berry fruit plums and cherries mingled with soil tones and hints of blood orange. Medium to full-bodied with fine mid-palate volume and powdery structuring tannins this is a lively elegant Grands Epenots that has realized the potential it showed in barrel. As I wrote last year it's always a pleasure to visit Domaine Pierre Morey one of my favorite addresses in the Côte de Beaune. This year I revisited the 2017s from bottle and found them showing superbly confirming all the promise they showed in 2018. And from barrel the young 2018s were beautifully balanced displaying considerable charm. For once the cellars are full and Anne Morey made no secret of the fact that the vintage is characterized by abundance; but all the 2018s are nicely concentrated and classically proportioned and I suspect they will be open for inspection sooner than the serious youthfully introverted 2017s. As usual long élevage is the order of the day here and most of these wines won't be bottled before the spring. - Wine Advocate
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{***}
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2019 Corton, Le Clos du Roi, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie
You have to work on this in the glass, but it’s well worth the effort. It’s initially reticent on the nose, but what emerges are the purest red fruit aromas – très Pinot. Its fresh acidity and resistant tannins speak of the vineyard’s 300-metre altitude and limestone mother-rock. Drink 2026-2032.
{***}{region}Corton{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 92-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2021 Monthélie, Domaine RamonetBeaune2021 Monthélie, Domaine RamonetBottle Price 75cl $715
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1998 Beaune, Le Clos des Mouches, 1er Cru, Domaine François Gaunoux
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1998{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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1996 Pommard, Les Epenots, 1er Cru, Domaine François Gaunoux
This Pommard Grands Epenots is a deep rich red, it has a subtle hint of earth on the nose, followed by the rich aromas of black cherries and with a touch of pepper. Very long finish, with great soft tanins.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1996{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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1995 Pommard, Les Grands Epenots, 1er Cru, Domaine François Gaunoux
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}1995{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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2016 Pommard, La Levrière, Trés Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Dugat-Py
Bernard Dugat lost around 30% of his 2014 Pommard la Levrière Vieilles Vignes due to hail damage, and it necessitated a lot of sorting. Still, it was worthwhile because it has quite an intense, pure bouquet of blackberries and wild strawberry despite just a little reduction. The palate is bolstered by firm, grainy tannin on the entry. There is good weight in the mouth, a little oaky on the finish but there is a keen line of acidity. - Wine Advocate
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 90/100{ratings} {***}
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2009 Volnay, Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
In a vintage in which so many wines are all about intensity, 2009 Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Champans (magnum) impresses for its perfume, delineated fruit and fabulous overall balance. Refined and impeccable in its sense of restraint, the 2009 is so very pretty and expressive. Silky tannins round out the racy, polished finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. - Vinous
{***}{region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage} {ratings}
[] Vinous:: 94/100
[] Burghound:: 93/100
[] Wine Spectator:: 93/100
{ratings} {***}
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2019 Corton Le Rognet, Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
Here too there is a whiff of herbal tea sitting atop the cool essence of various wild red berries and newly turned earth scents. There is first-rate richness and volume to the big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors that also conclude in an overtly austere finish that offers dramatically good persistence. This too is quite firmly structured and like any Corton worthy of the name, it's built for extended cellaring. - Burghound
{***}{region}Corton{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 92-95/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2009 Volnay Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
A ripe yet cool nose features notes of cherry liqueur, raspberry, stone and soil-tones, all of which can be found on the rich, generous and beautifully well-detailed middle weight flavors that exude an equally fine minerality on the driving, punch and strikingly long finish where the hallmark touch of austerity in a young Taillepieds is in evidence. A lovely effort of class and grace that is less forbidding than usual. *Sweet Spot, Outstanding* - Burghound
{***}{region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage} {ratings}
[] The Wine Advocate:: 90-91/100
[] Burghound:: 93/100
[] Wine Spectator:: 90/100
{ratings} {***}
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1996 Pommard, Les Rugiens, 1er Cru, Domaine de Courcel, Burgundy
The Domaine de Courcel produces Pommard with very traditional methods. Wines undergo a relatively warm fermentation, with at least three weeks of maceration and two to three punchings of the "cap" per day, resulting in a fine extraction of fruit, colour and tannins. The wines have been made by Vosne-Romanée vigneron Yves Confuron since 1996. The grapes are vinified with their stems after a severe sorting process. They are then matured in barrel for 18 months or more, without racking. There is not much reliance on new oak. The resulting wines have subtlety and richness that accompany a remarkable ability to age.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage} {ratings}
[] Allen Meadows, Burghound:: 92/100
{ratings} {***}
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2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Benjamin Leroux
This is deliciously moreish, with sweet strawberry fruit and cranberry bite for lift. The final blend will also include some wine aged in large foudre, which adds a heartier, richer texture and rounds out the wine. Simple but not one-dimensional. Drink 2019-2023.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep Ein 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure.{***} {region}Burgundy{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {***}
2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Benjamin Leroux勃根地2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75cl $328 -
2015 Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Rossignol-TrapetWith a rich purple colour, this has a firm, concentrated nose. Then it swells incredibly on the palate, unbelievably dense and plump yet with a great line, really long. Yes, please. There is a wonderful wealth of fruit to this, a glamorous sense of luxury but it’s very stylish. There is plenty of purple fruit, black cherries and a good natural acid balance. Drink 2025-2035.
Jasper Morris MW
Nicolas and David Rossignol report a healthy crop in quality and quantity, though a little reduced in the Grands Crus. They began on 7th September, using around 50 percent whole bunches, and avoided any punching down during vinification as there was no need to search for extraction, preferring a daily pumping-over and aeration. As ever there is only a modest use of new oak and sulphur levels are kept low. They have made unquestionably brilliant wines this year.{***} {region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2015{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 90-92/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2016 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru Domaine du Comte Armand
There was only about half the normal yield this year (whatever that means at the moment), with only 30 barrels made. Tasting the separate components of younger (25-year-old) and older (65- to 80-year-old) vines, as well as the vin de presse , really highlighted where Paul is aiming to take the Clos. A new vertical press leaves more berries intact, and thus more sugar. There is an unusual level of suppleness (even in the vin de presse. This is really rather wonderful, a great terroir evolving with the times. Drink 2023-2035.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 93-95/100{ratings} {***}
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, 1er Cru, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
A cool site giving low pH wines (higher acidity). Mid purple in colour with no great depth, an elegant light red fruit nose, strict, fresh raspberry and alpine strawberry. - Jasper Morris MW
{***}{region}Gevrey-Chambertin{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} [] Jasper Morris :: 89-93/100 {ratings}{***}
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2010 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Vinification with the stems gives these wines a notable character on the nose, with floral, spice and rose petals all coming to the fore, and an impressive density on the palate. This is a very graceful wine, and the finish shows a touch of tannin to maintain structure.
Jasper Morris MWDomaine de Montille picked between the 18th and 26th September in 2010. The red wines, made by American Brian Sieve (one of two winemakers in this catalogue born in Indianapolis!) under the surveillance of Etienne de Montille, now show a consistency of style and quality that perhaps was not entirely there a few years ago. The whites are the responsibility of Etienne’s sister Alix and maintain the class of recent times. Together they have produced a fine result in 2010.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage} {ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 91-93/100 {***}
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2018 Vosne-Romanée, Les Hautes Maizières, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
This old vines cuvée comes from a tiny parcel of vines nearly 79 years in age that were planted by Massale Selection. The sub-soil here is chalk but there's limestone and clay up above. This is a structured red Burgundy that's powerful and will benefit from age. The majority of the domaine's vines are old vines (Massale) planted in the 1930s and 40s. Naturally the yields are miniscule for this reason making this wine all the more rare.
{***} {region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
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2017 Pommard, Les Rugiens-bas, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Firm reduction knocks down the underlying fruit at present. There is more size and power to the equally mineral-driven flavors that aren't especially dense, though neither are they dilute, while offering outstanding depth and persistence on the notably firm finale. Patience suggested. Drink 2034+, Burghound (Apr 2019)
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Chenevery, 1er Cru, Lignier-Michelot
Discreet but not invisible wood and menthol influences set off the much riper aromas of cassis, plum, black raspberry and game. There is excellent intensity to the mineral-driven and overtly powerful middle weight plus flavors that offer excellent depth and persistence on the firmly structured finale. This is really quite good and worth checking out provided you cellar it for at least 5 to 7 years first. 93 Points - Burghound
{***} {region}Morey-St Denis{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Burghound:: 93/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2016 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Lucien Le Moine
A very pretty and airy nose features notes of red cherry, raspberry and spice with a shading of soft wood and earth. On the palate though this is not nearly as concentrated though there is still perfectly good concentration and a sleek muscularity on the vibrant, detailed and lingering finish. While this is by no means light, it is a Charmes built more along the lines of finesse than power. Drink 2028+
Burghound (Apr 2018){***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Burghound:: 91-94/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2018 Pommard, Les Pézerolles, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
As Pommards go, Les Pézerolles is rather Volnaysien in style, thanks to its limestone soils, which give a more elegant and delicate expression. The fruit here is most definitely red and this is pretty, perfumed and charming, but with a serious, chalky limestone structure. Drink 2024-2032.
{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color} Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {***}
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2018 Volnay, En Champans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Brian was limited to 50% whole-bunch here; it would have been more, but there was no space in the tank. Champans can tend towards the rustic and tannic, and Brian softens the edges to give a softer, gentler and more delicate expression with silky tannins and lovely, perfumed lift. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region} Volnay {region} {color} Red {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2018 Vosne-Romanée, La Combe Brûlée, Domaine Bruno Clavelier
One of the most beautiful vineyards of Terroir, with its more than 85 years of life, lives vibrant in the contrast between the freshness of the winds of the Combe and the heat held by the sunny pebbles of the ground.
{***} {region}Vosne-Romanée{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
{ratings}
{***}
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2017 Volnay, Frémiets, 1er Cru, Domaine du Comte ArmandThis is beautifully heady and perfumed. Some parcels are nearly 90 years old, and others 35 years old, with the crop a healthy 49.6hl/ha. Again, there is the impression of purity, sensuality and structure, aided in part by the contiguity of Pommard-Jarolières. Drink 2022-2028.
Paul Zinetti was realistic yet confident in the quality of his 2017s. Such an early harvest, which started in Volnay Frémiets on 3rd September and ended in Auxey on 11th September, provided new challenges which Paul addressed creatively and sympathetically. The wines were fruity and direct but he found that colour and structure were slow to come, so he kept the wine on skins for a week or more after fermentation. There is less whole-bunch this year as the stems weren’t always fully ripe, but his de-stemmer preserves a lot of whole berries anyway. He will bottle all the reds before Christmas without filtration but he will trial some fining to round out the tannins.
{***} {region}Volnay{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate: 89-91/100{
ratings
}
{***}
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2018 Pommard, Les Rugiens-bas, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Meursault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the greatest potential of each vintage out of the various plots, and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allows the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is very minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in the village wines and in Bourgogne Blanc.
Pierre Boisson produces a village Meursault from his grandmother’s vineyards (50 year old vines in the lieu-dits of Criots and Perchots) that is hailed an model wine for the appellation.{***}{region}Pommard{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}
{ratings}
[] Vinous:: 94/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2002 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Murgers, 1er Cru, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
Medium depth of colour with a delicate, fragrant nose, very glossy, a delicious volume of fruit, fair depth, brisk red fruit with plenty of acidity. Fully ready but holding up nicely; no hurry.
Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (January 2018)
{***}{region} Nuits-St Georges {region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2002{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 91/100
{ratings}
{***}
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2017 Beaune, Cent Vignes, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy
Benjamin Leroux is perhaps best known as a négociant, but he now owns a significant proportion of his own vineyards. He bought fruit from this 0.5-hectare parcel until eventually buying the land in 2021. The soil is light and sandy with brown gravel, giving a perfumed and pretty wine that has a light and delicate structure. Five barrels were made in 2017. The nose is spicy with open red-berry fruit, with floral aromas that follow through onto the palate. This is a pretty, pure and transparent expression of Beaune.
Drink now to 2027
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2008 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein, Burgundy
The outstanding wine in 2007 is equally brilliant in 2008. Deep purple in colour with exceptional power on the nose. Some fresh mulberry fruit at the start leads to more complex flavours and even a touch of bacon on the palate. Stems used in the vinification. Brilliantly put together. Very long finish, suffused with energy.
(Jasper Moris MW, BBR Buyer) -
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1er Cru, Olivier Bernstein, Burgundy
Fine glowing purple with a stylish nose and sense of class sitting alongside the naturally lush volume of the vintage. The chocolate notes are infused with minerals. This has everything going for it, including fine-boned tannins at the back.
(Jasper Morris MW){***}{region} Gevrey-Chambertin {region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2009{vintage}
{ratings}[] Burghound :: 90-92/100
[] Jancis Robinson MW :: 16.5/20
{ratings}
{***}
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2009 Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy
This Latricires-Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Rossignol-Trapet has beautiful, elegant, deep red fruit and is very graceful and subtle. The fine fruit stretches all the way to a lovely finish with an amazingly perfumed aftertaste.
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2010 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, 1er Cru, Olivier Bernstein, Burgundy
Bright rich purple. Very classy nose with lots of energy. Rich fruit but poised and chiselled, generous in the middle yet structured and fresh behind. Fabulous blackberry and red fruit finish which stretches out magically. Haute Couture.
Jasper Morris MW, Fine Wine Buyer -
2010 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot, Burgundy
This Close de Vougeot glows an imperial purple with exceptional quality and real nobility. Fine and taut on the palate, with black fruit notes, it has a superb tannic structure and therefore the potential for long term ageing.
This has been one of the most exciting cellars in the whole of Burgundy for the last few vintages, a fact which is beginning to be reflected in the pricing. The significant reduction in crop this year, which Etienne Grivot ascribes more to the extreme winter cold than poor flowering, is also a factor. Etienne has been working hard to refine the tannins in his wines, and has surely succeeded in 2010, by producing wines of great energy but with suave, sophisticated finishes. These are brilliant wines that unfortunately, are in short supply.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2010 Volnay, Les Lurets, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon, Burgundy
This wine has an amazing wealth of fruit, notable grip and will benefit from longer barrel élévage. It is certainly one to put away in the cellar and look forward to.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy DirectorThe former Domaine René Manuel has been purchased by investors, the vineyards being split between Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Domaine Roulot while Dominique Lafon himself has moved production of his own label wines to the Manuel cellars in Meursault, as well as gaining some Bourgogne Blanc vines. Though Dominique operates officially under the status of negociant, all the wines are domaine grown and bottled except the Bourgogne Blanc, which will be next year.
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2012 Charmes-Chambertin, Les Mazoyères, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie, Burgundy
A fine powerful purple colour with a lifted and exciting bouquet: fruit dances across the palate, complex and compelling and the stems add a crunchiness to the otherwise seamlessly rich texture. This is a glorious wine from ancient vines.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine DirectorThis superb domaine grows in reputation and also in size: this year sees the first vintage of Nuits-St Georges, Clos de Thorey. Look out for even further additions in the next two years. Winemaker Pierre Vincent’s style is for lighter colours and very sensual wines and he has done a cracking job again in 2012; a vintage which supported the plentiful use of whole bunch fermentation. The domaine is certified organic and fully biodynamic.
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2013 Corton, Le Rognet, Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine BrunoClavelier, Burgundy
Here the nose is distinctly different as it combines overt sauvage scents with those of pomegranate and dark cherry liqueur aromas, all of which is trimmed in plenty of warm earth nuances. There is fine volume and plenty of power to the muscular, powerful and robust big-bodied flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration as well as impressive persistence. What this doesn't have, at least not yet is the outstanding depth and thus my predicted range is somewhat wider than it usually is. The requisite underlying material does appear to be in place so that this additional complexity can develop and I am optimistic that it will in time.
Allen Meadows - burghound.com - Jan 2015 -
2013 Clos-Vougeot, Vieilles Vignes, Grand Cru, Château de la Tour, Burgundy
Noticeable but not invasive wood and menthol frame a slightly riper array of aromas that are quite similar to those of the regular cuvée. Here too there is outstanding density and power to the even more concentrated broad-shouldered and robust flavors that possess even better depth and persistence on the impeccably well-balanced, saline and palate coating finish. This is presently extremely primary and while it's clear that this offers huge upside development potential it's also clear that plenty of patience will be required.
Drink 2031+
95 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, Jan 2016, Issue #61 -
2017 Volnay, Vendanges Sélectionnées, Domaine Michel Lafarge, Burgundy
This is a selection of the vineyards clustered around the village of Volnay itself. Grands Champs, Pluchots, Gigottes and Échards combine to give a richer nose and more density than the standard bottling. The palate displays greater structure while still retaining elegance and finesse. Drink 2021-2028.
Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.
Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964. -
2017 Beaune Rouge, Clos des Mouches, 1er Cru, Domaine Chanson, Burgundy
This is a charming and delightful example of everything I love about 2017 reds: pale ruby, a seductive perfume of red berries, rose petals and a dash of pepper. The palate is open and pretty, with juicy, crunchy redcurrant and strawberry fruit, mouth-watering acidity, and delicate, silken tannins. The finish has a chalky limestone freshness and a touch of creamy, spicy oak that will integrate further with time, though it may prove difficult to resist the temptation to enjoy this wine's wonderful balance and charm now.
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Santenay, Cuvée "S", David Moreau, Burgundy
This is from two very different vineyards: David has 0.8 hectares of 35-year-old vines in Les Cornières on glacial alluvial spoil from the combe, and 0.15 hectares in Charmes-Dessus on complex limestone, all planted in the 1980s. Here the spiciness is complemented by black fruits, and there is a final lift of sweet red fruit on the finish from 15% whole-bunch. Drink 2021-2026.
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2018 Volnay, Les Lurets, 1er Cru, Dominique Lafon, Burgundy
The fruit here comes from the parcel upslope from that used for the Lafon village Volnay. It’s extraordinary that a few metres uphill can make such a difference, but this is much more powerful and richly perfumed, and still quintessentially Volnay.
Drink 2024 - 2032
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Volnay, Les Brouillards, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy
Shallow sandy soils, a dry year, risk of dehydrating – so pick early. Still above 13% though. Two-thirds whole cluster. Plump ripe fruit aromatics but still with some freshness. Just a slightly drier finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (October 2019)
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2018 Nuits-St Georges, La Charmotte, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Burgundy
Thibault Liger-Belair has followed organic and biodynamic practices for more than two decades. He believes that winemaking starts not with the fruit but with the soil. “We all talk about terroir, but my focus is on the soil and putting what it needs first,” Thibaut explains. His wines are pure, focused and desirable.
Immediately north of the town, La Charmotte lies just below Premier Cru Aux Bousselots. Firmer tannins from the lighter limestone follow a soft and generous entry from the clay-rich soil. This is pretty and front-loaded with plenty of fresh red-fruit notes.
Drink 2021 - 2026
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2018 Beaune, Pertuisots, 1er Cru, Domaine des Croix, Burgundy
An elegant wine, this comes from a cool site in a slight dip, with shallow topsoil before the limestone. It offers a coulis of red fruit in 2018, juicy and accessible, but with a lovely cool, refreshing push underneath. Drink 2023-2029.
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2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Ma Cuvée, Arnaud Mortet, Burgundy
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2019 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
The traditional one-quarter of a hectare around Vosne and Vougeot has been supplemented by a new plot in Les Croix Blanches in Vosne-Romanée, doubling the size of the cuvée. Unusually, there’s 20% new oak this year. The new parcel provides a little more spice and structure, but the wine remains exceptionally long for its humble appellation. Drink 2021-2027.
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2020 Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, Burgundy
The malolactic was half way through. 58% whole bunch, 50% new wood, including this sample from a new barrel. Jet black with purple rim, some apple notes from the malolactic and some barrel toast. Powerful stuff. Lively acidity though, coffee notes, more dark fruit but not at all heavy. Some tannins. Very good length here.
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (January 2022) -
2020 Volnay, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur, Burgundy
This is from the Echards and Aussy village vineyards. The higher level of tartaric acid in this vintage (at the expense of malic acid) gives the wine some rigour on the palate. François has worked hard to get the balance correct between structure, freshness and fruit. Some very attractive red fruit and violet Volnay perfumes arrive with aeration.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2020 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux Saint-Jacques, 1er Cru, Domaine Louis Jadot, Burgundy
The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with red cherries, blackcurrant, crushed violet and light stony aromas. This is nicely focused with good vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, touches of orange rind and marmalade enlivening the peppery finish. Not the most precise Lavaux Saint-Jacques, but good substance here.
Drink 2026 - 2048
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (December 2021)
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2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Morgeot, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean-NoëlGagnard, Burgundy
This is from the lieux-dits Grands Clos and Clos Chareau. The former is higher up, on limestone, the latter lower down, with more clay. Great Morgeot is a vin de garde; this is no exception. It’s spicy and rich, with plump fruit and delicate floral touches. The texture is serious and a little firm, but this will age beautifully.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2020 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Thorey, 1er Cru, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Burgundy
Dense black purple. Very little bouquet. Huge rich and powerful but this time the fruit goes right through to the finish and the little fresh crunch of acidity at the back helps considerably. Some deep raspberry along with some blacker fruit as well.
Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (January 2022)
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2020 Gevrey-Chambertin, Regnard, Hubert Lignier, Burgundy
The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Regnard (négoce) bursts with aromas of plums, peonies, warm spices and soil tones. It's charming and vibrant, medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish.
Laurent Lignier began his harvest on August 27, reporting below-average yields and finished alcohols between 13% and 14%. Once again, the result is a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews.
As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day and maturation in barrels, some one-third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars.
The 2020s are more primary and tightly wound than Lignier's 2019s, but they're similar in quality and worth seeking out.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (January 2022)
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2020 Chambolle Musigny, Les Noirots, 1er Cru, Domaine François Legros, Burgundy
The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Noirots comes from vines of Riparia rootstock, around 35-year old. It has a lovely bouquet, pure and elegant with dark cherries, wild strawberry and rose petal scents. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, well balanced with a fine proportioned, harmonious finish. What a charming Noirots!
Drink 2024 - 2036
Neil Martin, Vinous.com (December 2021)
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2021 Gevrey-Chambertin, La Combe Aux Moine, 1er Cru, A.-F. Gros, Burgundy
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2018 Volnay, Santenots, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy
This wine is new to the portfolio, although it formed part of the village Volnay blend last year. From the Les Pleures sub-section of Les Santenots, Ben has 0.5 hectares of 50-year-old vines which gave a generous 35hl/ha this year. There is a commendable positivity in this wine, almost muscularity, with a rewarding density and richness.
Drink 2026 - 2032