ready-improve2017 Barolo, Sperss, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy

The 2017 Barolo Sperss is a powerful, backward wine. In 2017 Sperss is not as huge as in some previous years, but then again, the move towards greater finesse has been in place for some time now. In tasting, Sperss feels more extracted and tannic than Conteisa (even after allowing for the clear differences in site), with a strong oak imprint that is also pretty evident. Sage, tobacco, scorched earth and spice meld into a core of dark Serralunga fruit in this imposing Barolo from Gaja. Give it a few years to soften.

Antonio Galloni, Vinous