White Burgundy
Burgundy produces some of the most regal Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines in the world. With 100 different appellations, myriad individual vineyards and more than 3,000 individual producers, around 15 million cases are produced there annually from 26,500ha of vines. Burgundy has five sub-regions: Chablis in the Yonne department; the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in the Côte d'Or; and the Chalonnais and Mâconnais in the Saone-et-Loire.
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2020 Chablis, Domaine Pinson Frères
This is a blend of five choice parcels, split 50-50 between the left and right banks of the Serein. It’s fermented and raised entirely in stainless steel to preserve freshness. Clean, precise and saline, it has the classic oyster shell, and iodine notes one expects from Chablis, with a dry, grippy finish.
Drink 2022 - 2029
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}
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{maturity-text} {vintage}2020{vintage}{***}
2020 Chablis, Domaine Pinson FrèresChablis2020 Chablis, Domaine Pinson FrèresBottle Price 75 cl $195 -
2019 Mâcon-la Roche Vineuse, Les Cras, Olivier Merlin
This cuvée is from old vines planted on a steep, south-facing site with high limestone content. It’s a wine which always punches above its weight, requiring a few years before approaching. Olivier shows this after the St Vérans, such is the regard in which it’s held. The 2019 is very concentrated, if a little more accessible than usual. Drink 2022-2027.
{***}{region} Mâcon{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2019 Mâcon-Vinzelles, Clos de Grand-Père La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
This one-hectare plot, purchased by the Brets’ grandfather, lies on relatively deep soils in the heart of the village of Vinzelles – overlooked by the primary school and mairie. Conceived for early drinking, it’s expressive and harmonious from the word “go”. Its texture is gorgeous. Drink 2020-2023.
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2019 Pouilly-Fuissé, Sur La Roche, Olivier Merlin
When the classification arrives in 2020, this will be the highest-altitude Premier Cru in Pouilly-Fuissé: it’s over 300 metres above sea level. There’s a little more ripeness to the nose here, but the palate retains the signature freshness of the vineyard. A star performer this year, this has wonderful salinity and minerality. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region} Pouilly-Fuissé {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For Laying Down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100
[] Vinous:: 92/100
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2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
The fruit comes from the lower slopes and younger vines of the excellent Les Quarts vineyard Ewhich sits on a perfectly exposed south-east-facing slope with views over the Saone valley towards Mont Blanc. Eighty percent is made in tank, for freshness. The rest is fermented and aged in old barrels, giving a gentle oxygenation which rounds out the palate and adds complexity. The nose is packed with apple and pear, with a light dusting of acacia, vanilla and straw. Juicy and medium bodied on the palate, this offers plenty of concentration and a saline, precise finish. This biodynamic Burgundy is excellent value. Drink now to 2026.
{***} {region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBurgundy2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75 cl $278Bottle Price 150 cl $497Was $585 -
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings}
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 89-92/100
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2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBurgundy2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret BrothersBottle Price 75cl $348Bottle Price 150cl $708 -
2019 Meursault, Les Gruyaches, Jean-Philippe Fichet
Gruyaches is tucked in under Charmes, on the Premier Cru side of the road to Puligny. The oldest vines date to 1930. It’s as good, if not better, than some Premier Cru Charmes, just above it. The site is warm, with clay over limestone, but the old vines give moderation. The wine is intense, honeyed, layered and harmonious. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} []Jasper Morris MW:: 90-92/100
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2019 Meursault, Santenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
This is from the upper Les Blancs section, near Volnay; much of this vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir. This section will be 50 years old next year, and the vines are shy-bearing and small-berried. There are just three barrels, but it’s impressive: intensely ripe but not overblown, the red wine terroir adding a suggestion of grilled bacon. Drink 2024-2035.
{***} {region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 88-90/100
[] Jasper Morris MW:: 91-93/100
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2018 Meursault, Les Poruzots, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille
Poruzots is a vineyard quick to ripen, and Brian takes care to pick this in good time, as evidenced by the vibrant bead of acidity which runs through the wine. There is the classic Poruzots breadth, along with an earthy reduction, but there is real freshness here. It was in 20% new oak. Drink 2023-2029.
{***}{region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2016 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet (Magnum)
The estate has nearly a quarter of a hectare here, but suffered a 50 percent loss in 2016. Marvellously intense, this has an ethereal, cool, stone component Ea classic character of this vineyard, with a lick of exotic nectarine on the finish. It was matured equally in a mixture of standard and demis, and with more and longer lees contact than usual, to feed the wine’s textural volume. It will need patience. Drink 2022-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}{***}
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2013 Meursault Sous La Velle, Anne Boisson
Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Mersault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the greatest potential of each vintage out of the various plots, and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allows the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is very minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in the village wines and in Bourgogne Blanc.
The Domaine crafts from three of the best lieux à dits in Meursault: Sous la Velle , Grands Charrons (planted in 1988) and Chevalières (planted in 1982). The Grands Charrons is the most expressive, intensely flavoured of the three. The Sous la Velle is a more elegant version of the Grand Charrons.{***} {region}Meursault{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will ikeep{maturity-text} {vintage}2013{vintage}
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2013 Meursault Sous La Velle, Anne BoissonMeursault2013 Meursault Sous La Velle, Anne BoissonBottle Price 75 cl $1,165 -
2020 Meursault, Saint Christophe, Domaine de Montille
This wine comes from the climats of Casse-Tête, Les Petits Charrons and Narvaux du Dessous, three terroirs which are perfectly sited in the middle of the hill of Meursault, also known as the Montagne Saint-Christophe. There is good weight here, but this is a true hillside Meursault with a serious acid structure, graphite reduction and chewy, mineral finish.
{***}{region} Meursault {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2020{vintage}{***}
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2021 Chablis, Les Clos, Grand Cru, Domaine Pinson
As befits the well-exposed Grand Cru site, the fruit profile here is towards the stone fruit end of the spectrum. Spicy, rich, and with a hint of oak, there is outstanding concentration, a chalky minerality and a satisfying, long finish of pain d’épices. Drink 2021-2030.
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2021{vintage}{***}
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1994 Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru, Robert Ampeau & Fils
The 1994 Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru by Robert Ampeau & Fils presents a bright golden hue with a slight amber tinge. On the nose, ripe orchard fruits blend with hazelnuts and buttery pastry notes, complemented by citrus zest and delicate floral undertones.
The palate offers a beautiful balance of richness and freshness, with luscious pear, apple, and peach flavours, enhanced by creamy vanilla and butterscotch from oak ageing. The mineral character mid-palate reflects the Perrières terroir, while a well-structured acidity leads to a long, satisfying finish.
Enjoy now for vibrant fruit and complexity, or cellar for more tertiary aromas and flavours.
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2017 Mâcon-Pierreclos, Jus de Chavigne, 1er Cru, Domaine Guffens-Heynen
The 2017 Mâcon-Pierreclos 1er Jus de Chavigne is performing brilliantly, offering up a lovely bouquet of pear, white peach, pastry cream and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with serious intensity and chewy extract, racy acids and a long, chalky finish. This far surpasses its performance from barrel, and its structured, concentrated profile suggests it will demand some patience, promising considerable rewards. Revisiting my conservative tasting note from twelve months before, I feel a little like the mayor of Amity Island in "Jaws," shouting "open the beaches" and encouraging people to take to the water, with no notion of what is about to happen. 2022-2037. - Wine Advocate
{***} {region} Mâcon{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2010 St Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert Lamy
En Remillys usual forceful personality and solid structure shows on the weighty, ripe nose of this wine. It needs more time to show at its bright best, but the length shows an early mark of quality.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy DirectorOlivier Lamy decided on an unusually early start of 14th September in 2010, having closely monitored the ripeness of his grapes. He has also significantly reduced the amount of new oak this year, preferring to use one year old barrels from the plentiful 2009 vintage. He now has a substantial barrel park of 600 litre demi-muids to draw from. Olivier is not a fan of lees stirring: his style is for pure, precise concentrated wines.
{***}{region}St Aubin{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity}
{maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***}
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2018 Mâcon-Pierreclos, Tri de Chavigne, Domaine Guffens-Heynen
The 2018 Mâcon-Pierreclos Tri de Chavigne is showing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, crisp Anjou pear, blanched almonds, white flowers and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's searingly intense, with an elegantly textural attack and a racy spine of acidity. Still tightly wound after its recent bottling, this has a long and glorious future ahead of it. This cuvée was produced from three picks—spread over the course of 12 days—in Guffens's higher-altitude holdings in Le Chavigne, and it was raised in barrels, some 30% of which were new. Drink 2025-2045. - Wine Advocate
{***} {region} Mâcon{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2021 Bourgogne Côte d'Or Blanc, Cuvée Oligocene, Patrick Javillier
Not tasted: The domaine makes two Bourgogne cuvées; this is our favourite, from 0.75 hectares of limestone-dominated soils. It is a fine and mineral expression that creeps into village-level quality thanks to its surprising elegance and sophistication. Think citrus fruit and chalk. Drink 2023-2029
{***}{region}Burgundy{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2021{vintage}{***}
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2017 Pouilly-Loché, Domaine Jules Desjourneys, Burgundy
Here a faint smoke and bitters on the nose Eaeration brings a more overt floral aspect. A little extra sweetness, more overtly mineral Eclarity, growing intensity Eyou could be in Chablis here but with an extra concentration.
{***} {region} Mâcon{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage}{***}
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2021 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de Montille
A firm favourite of ours for many years, this wine is made from vines planted in the grounds of the Château de Puligny-Montrachet, within the village of Puligny. It is a late developing site and this, with the help of the windmill in front of the Château, ensured a decent crop was made. It is made in large format oak barrels for the first year and then in a large tank over the second winter. The nose is fruity and open with a hint of hazelnut and toast. On the palate, this is energetic and vivacious. There is a pleasing citrus freshness, delicate floral hints and a chalky finish. Drink 2023-2028.
{***}{region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2021{vintage}{***} -
2021 Mâcon-Pierreclos, 2ème Vendange de Chavigne, Domaine Guffens-Heynen
Guffens produced the 2021 Mâcon-Pierreclos Deuxième Vendange de Chavigne from a second picking some three weeks later of second-generation fruit that had attained full maturity, along with the very early stages of botrytis (when the berries turn rose-coloured but before they begin to degrade and shrivel), known in Mâconnais parlance as "levrouté."
This has turned out beautifully, picking up additional texture and depth with élevage and revealing complex aromas of freshly baked bread, confit citrus, toasted nuts, white flowers and clear honey. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, with lively acids and a saline finish, it's built to age with grace.
Drink 2025 - 2045
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (October 2023)
{***}{region} Mâcon{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2019{vintage}{***}
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2013 Chablis, Séchet, 1er Cru, Vincent Dauvissat
High-toned aromatics lift from the glass in the 2013 Chablis Sechet. Mirabelle plums, kirsch and Poire William meld into honey and sweet fruit in a layered, highly expressive Seches. There is plenty of early appeal, yet the 2013 also has enough depth to develop nicely in the cellar for a number of years. This is a lovely showing. - Vinous
{***}{region}Chablis{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2014{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 89-91/100 [] Allen Meadows:: 90/100 Outstanding {ratings}
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2018 Chassagne-Montrachet, Blanchots Dessus, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
This brilliant vineyard is a continuation of the Montrachet Grand Cru as the slope starts to fall away. This has Grand Cru structure, its florality hidden deep within during its youth. Drink 2024-2030.
{***}{region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2020 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Henri Boillot
Purchased grapes from all three communes of the appellation. Mid lemon yellow colour, a tight nose, harder to assess because served after the Montrachet. Very intense, backwards, quite ripe, and the necessary stones, along with the weighty yellow fruit, appear in due course.
Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (October 2021)
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2015 Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru, Domaine Dauvissat-Camus
This is aromatically even more complex if perhaps a bit less elegant with its pure if mildly exotic array of citrus, iodine, tidal pool, white peach and apple aromas. There is excellent punch to the full-bodied and muscular middle weight flavors that possess plenty of mouth coating sap that helps to buffer the moderately firm acid spine. This powerful effort should reward from 6 to 10 years of bottle age and is another in a long line of fine examples of La Forest from Vincent Dauvissat. *Outstanding* Burghound
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2020 Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru, Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils (Magnum)
Bouchard has 1.2 hectares in the prime Dessous sector, towards the northern end of the vineyard. A wine of minerals rather than fruit, the nose is spicy, stony and saline. Tight and energetic, the wine is built around its acid structure. It is spine-tingling with a firm, dry grip at the finish. There is wonderful tension here. Drink 2026-2040.
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2010 Meursault, Les Perrières, 1er Cru, Château de Puligny-Montrachet
Chevalières is a true “deuxième cru Eof Meursault, sitting as it does on the band of Premiers Crus. It has a more easterly exposition as the slope turns to the north, giving it a slightly cooler profile. An elegant and energetic wine, there’s pleasing volume on the mid-palate Ebut this is all about purity and finesse. Drink 2022-2030.
{***}{region} St Véran {region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage}{***}
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1994 Meursault, Charmes, 1er Cru, Robert Ampeau & Fils
A captivating Burgundy with a beautifully aged character. This premier cru Chardonnay showcases a deep golden colour that hints at the wine's maturity. On the nose, rich aromas of baked apples, toasted hazelnuts, and a touch of butterscotch mingle harmoniously, inviting you to explore further.
The palate delivers a complex and velvety texture, with flavours of ripe pear, lemon marmalade, and hints of vanilla from well-integrated oak. The wine's acidity remains vibrant, adding freshness to the overall experience. The finish is long and graceful, leaving traces of subtle mineral notes and a whisper of toasted oak.
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1997 Meursault, Charmes, 1er Cru, Robert Ampeau & Fils
The 1997 Meursault, Charmes, 1er Cru by Robert Ampeau & Fils immediately captivates the eye with its golden hue and brilliant clarity. On the nose, it unveils a complex bouquet of ripe orchard fruits such as baked apple, pear, and quince, accompanied by notes of toasted almonds, honey, and a subtle hint of butterscotch. The aromas are intertwined with delicate floral nuances, offering a sense of elegance.
This Meursault exhibits a harmonious balance between richness and freshness on the palate. The flavours of ripe apple and pear persist, accompanied by layers of creamy vanilla, toasted oak, and mineral undertones. The wine's texture is luxurious, showcasing a velvety mouthfeel and a well-integrated acidity that adds liveliness to the palate.
The finish is long and memorable, leaving a lingering impression of fruit, subtle spices, and a touch of flint.
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2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Le Cailleret, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille (Magnum)
A wine which merits its name, this is stony and flinty on the nose, with smoky reduction running the length of the wine. The palate is salty, precise and tangy, with fine, chiselled detail and a pulpy richness to the finish. Drink 2025-2032.
{***}{region}Puligny-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color}
{maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}For laying down{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***}
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2020 Berry Bros. & Rudd Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy
Jean-Louis Chavy has crafted a complex expression of this famous village. Fermented and aged in (20% new) oak, this is the archetypal elegant, floral and lacy Puligny. There’s a subtle perfume of white flowers and stone fruit; the palate is creamy, sophisticated and refreshing, with a spicy finish. This is perfect with Dover sole or creamy mushroom sauces. Drink now to 2030.
{***}{region}Puligny- Montrachet{region} {color} White{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage} {ratings} {ratings} {***} -
2020 Berry Bros. & Rudd Chassagne-Montrachet by Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
Jean-Baptiste and Benoît Bachelet have outdone themselves again with this outstanding Chassagne-Montrachet. It offers a complex blend of ripe, generous stone-fruit and chiselled, saline minerals. The nose is spicy and toasty with notes of oatmeal and white peach, while the palate is rounded and dense with a mouth-watering citrus finish and a lick of vanilla oak.
{***} {region}Chassagne-Montrachet{region} {color}White{color} {vintage}2020{vintage} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {ratings} {ratings}{***}
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2020 Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine Joseph Colin
Coming from 4 parcels, of which Meix Goudard is the biggest, which is on the level of the premier Crus (under les Macherelles), Blanchots - on the rock next to Criots, and Journoblots, which is under Criots. All are well-placed and make up 1.35 ha in total, so this is Joseph's biggest cuvée. He says he tries to pick it at 12.5% maximum, to retain freshness, and he succeeds - it is ripe, but the energetic freshness is retained. Pale gold with green/yellow reflections. Ripe sunny fruit nose is supported by comfortable oak and excellent acidity.
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2021 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin Leroux
Of Benjamin Leroux’s vines, only those around Meursault survived the frost. As it was impossible to save everything, Benjamin had to choose what to protect, opting to sacrifice his vines in the Hautes-Côtes and instead making just 80hl. His Bourgogne Blanc is an elegant and fresh style of wine, which displays some mid-palate solidity from the frost. Drink 2022 – 2026.
2021 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin LerouxBurgundy2021 Bourgogne Blanc, Benjamin LerouxBottle Price 75 cl $310 -
2021 St Aubin, Oratorium Sancti Albini, 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Colin, Burgundy
Oratorium Sancti Albini is an ancient name for St. Aubin; the blend is composed by four 1ers. A markedly restrained if pretty nose grudgingly offers up its array of citrus, floral and mineral reduction notes. The racy and very sleek medium-bodied flavors exude a bracing salinity on the firm, compact and linear finish. This is notably austere and a bit lean though my sense is that this will flesh out with bottle age. With that said, I would advise buying this only if you have the intent to cellar it. - Burghound
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2021 Bourgogne Blanc, Terres de Famille, Domaine de la Vougeraie
This is made principally from Chaux in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, along with some village Volnay fruit since 2020 and, new this year, a little Chassagne L’Ormeau. Some attractive toasty notes and the Chaux element keep it tight, fresh, lemony and bright.
Drink 2023 - 2027
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2011 Meursault, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy
The 2011 Meursault Village is the first to be blended with the parcel of Clos des Baronnes acquired from Domaine Manuel. It was assembled in tank around January and bottled around early June. It offers an attractive bouquet with hints of wild honey, orange blossom and quince. The palate is refined on the entry but then motors up a few gears toward the finish with hints of brioche and popcorn infusing the citrus fruit. There is good richness here for a Village Cru. Drink now-2020.
Neal Martin - 29/08/20132011 Meursault, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy2011 Meursault, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, BurgundyBottle Price 75 cl $2,300 -
2020 Meursault, Saint-Christophe, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy
The 2020 Meursault `Saint Christophe` captivates with its rich bouquet of ripe fruits, hints of butter and nuts, and a subtle touch of oak. Its palate is characterized by a harmonious balance of freshness, minerality, and a long, creamy finish.
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2020 St Aubin, Compendium, Joseph Colin, Burgundy
It comes from 9 plots in seven lieux-dits so Joseph may choose Les 7 Terroirs. Pale lemon colour, a light reduction to the nose. Lime notes on the palate, very much a classically crisp St-Aubin, with modest flesh but fine persistence. - Jasper Morris
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2018 Bourgogne Blanc, Clos-du-Château, Domaine de Montille
This comes from the five hectares immediately in front of the château, a park until it was planted in 1986. Brian did not use any SO2 until after the malolactic fermentation, and the wine is only aged in minimum 500-litre barrels. It’s classically Puligny in style, with flinty reduction and a pure, floral, citrus profile. Drink 2021-2026.
{***}{region} Burgundy{region} {color} White {color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2018{vintage}{***} -
2017 Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, Pierre Boisson, Burgundy
The 2017 Meursault Les Grands Charrons is excellent, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, pear, beeswax and wheat toast. Medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, it's concentrated and multidimensional, with a bright spine of acidity and an integrated, complete profile. This superior communal climat typically produces 15-20 barrels of wine, making it one of the domaine's more significant cuvées—and as readers will remember, it was formerly released under the Boisson-Vadot label.
Drink 2023 - 2040
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (February 2020)
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2020 Bourgogne Blanc, Eclat de Calcaire, Pierre Girardin, Burgundy
This consist of 80% Meursault and 20% Volnay from the three lieu-dits: “Magny”, “Les Herbeuax”, “Monpoulain”. Spicy apple, Asian pear, lemon/lime, thyme, tarragon, orange zest, cream of tartar, and mineral rich acidity.
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2020 Meursault, Domaine Henri Germain & Fils, Burgundy
From 6 lieux-dits, including Vireuils, Peutes Vignes, Moulin à Judas, Clos du Cromin, Dressoles and Les Pellans.
Smoky aromas of hazelnut, acacia blossom and white peach give way to super-sleek, intense and strikingly well-detailed medium-bodied flavours that possess a highly beguiling texture before culminating in a chiselled, focused and beautifully long finale. This understated effort is really quite lovely.
Drink from 2026 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (June 2022)
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2020 Chassagne-Montrachet, Champs Gains, 1er Cru, Domaine Paul Pillot, Burgundy
Pale colour, more density, a little more sunshine. Richer on the palate but still with enough structure, plenty of density here.
Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (November 2021) -
2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Chardonnay, Domaine Denis Carré
The 2021 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc has a satisfying nose, admirable presence and freshness. Jasmine and potpourri scents emerge with time. The palate is well-balanced and lively, with good weight with a subtle menthol note towards the finish. What's not to like?
Drink 2023 - 2029
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (January 2023)
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2014 Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, Burgundy
Clear, bright and pale in colour, this combines majesty with discretion. It is a superbly floral offering with ethereal, lifted fruit. All the detail is there, with waves of flavour rolling across the palate, and so much concentration of fruit that the acidity is hidden. Fabulous Montrachet.
Frédéric Weber has taken over prime winemaking responsibilities from Philippe Prost. He shares with his predecessor the ability to talk eloquently about his wines, with an excellent knowledge of each terroir. One change here is the increasing use of whole bunches during fermentation, though more in the Côte de Nuits than Côte de Beaune this year. Overall, these are excellent wines. -
2022 Chablis, Domaine 47°N 3°E, Guillaume Michaut, Burgundy
This is from a parcel of vines planted by three generations of Guillaume’s family, from himself back to his grandfather. Made in stainless steel tank with ten months on fine lees, it is a beautiful marriage of ripe and juicy citrus fruit, white flowers and tangy, saline minerals. It feels chiselled.
Drink 2024 - 2028
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2022 Chablis, Beauroy, 1er Cru, Domaine 47°N 3°E, Guillaume Michaut, Burgundy
This vineyard was planted in 1980 by Guillaume’s grandfather. Made in stainless-steel tank, this is a floral wine with some herbal notes and a hint of orange. Spicy ripe citrus also appears on the palate, along with a zesty, chalky freshness that kicks on to give a long, oyster shell and iodine-inflected finish.
Drink 2025 - 2032
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2021 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot’s Bourgogne Blanc is sourced from two parcels: one in Volnay and the other in Puligny-Montrachet. It is the latter that contributes the majority of the blend, making up two-thirds.
Drink 2023 - 2027
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2021 St Aubin, Compendium, Joseph Colin, Burgundy
Also called Les 7 terroirs in some markets. Medium depth of colour with more breadth of fruit than the Bourgogne. Definitely in the apple and fresh quince style with quite high acidity. Enough concentration at the back of the palate.
Drink 2024-2026
Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (January 2023) -
2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Les Hauts de la Combe, Domaine Joseph Colin
From two plots so now called Les Hauts de la Combe to bring in the names of the two lieux -dits. This has been bottled without fining or filtering. Pale colour, light yellow fruit, but again these are not high levels of ripeness. Very slight confection at the back but a good volume of fruit and excellent clean acidity.
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (Oct 2021)
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2005 Chevalier-Montrachet, Les Demoiselles, Grand Cru, Domaine desHéritiers Louis Jadot, Burgundy
This is a legendary wine from the best plot in Chevalier. Theres an extraordinarily sexy nose and according to winemaker Jacques Lardire, the flavour you get when you crunch a hazelnut straight from the tree. The palate absolutely sings with a dancing minerality on the finish. A wonderful wine to be enjoyed over the next 30 years.
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2019 Meursault, Les Perrières, 1er Cru, Pierre Morey, Burgundy
The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is brilliant, unwinding with scents of citrus oil, crisp Anjou pear, green apple, white flowers, crushed chalk and toasted wood. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and incisive, it's electric and tightly wound, with terrific concentration, appreciable structuring dry extract and a long, mineral finish. As I've written before, Pierre Morey farmed this 0.55-hectare parcel before acquiring it at the end of the 1980s, and the composition of the soils suggests that this was the location where rejected stones from the quarry that lends the climat its name were discarded. - Wine Advocate 94-96/100
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2019 Meursault, Domaine Roulot, Burgundy
As usual, 2019 Meursault Villages comes from several parcels including Clos de la Baronne, Sous la Velle and Crotot. It has a well-defined bouquet, a little spicier than previous vintages. Timid at first, but finds its voice with aeration. Hints of lemongrass and chai complement the citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced with good concentration and slightly waxy in texture. Fine depth with that spicy leitmotif return on the finish. Give this 18-24 months in bottle. - Vinous 89/100
2019 Meursault, Domaine Roulot, Burgundy2019 Meursault, Domaine Roulot, BurgundyBottle Price 75cl $3,380 -
2020 L'Etoile, Chardonnay, Montmorain, Domaine de Montbourgeau, Jura
This wine comes from a west-facing vineyard with chalky soil. Just three barrels - under 900 bottles - were made this year. The nose has some stone fruit and a hint of reduction. The exposure to the late-afternoon sun gives a generosity and warmth to the mid-palate, before the limestone soil makes its presence felt in a saline, chalk-inflected finish.
Drink 2024 - 2026
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 L'Etoile, En Banode, Domaine de Montbourgeau, Jura
A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Savagnin, this is in essence a mini Vin Jaune, aged for a year in oak foudres (casks) before going into barrel for the “sous voile” ageing for a further two years. The La Banode vineyard was planted in 1970 and gives wines that are powerful but delicate. The warm and dry 2018 vintage has yielded a generous yet saline wine with notes of salted almonds and citrus zest.
Drink 2024 - 2030
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2020 Mâcon-Bray, Les Essarts, Pierre Boisson, Burgundy
Domaine Boisson-Vadot, run by the father, son, and daughter teams of Bernard, Pierre, and Anne Boisson, is one of the rising stars in Mersault. The philosophy of the Domaine revolves around careful, hands-on vineyard management to coax the tremendous potential of each vintage out of the various plots and low-impact winemaking in the cellars that allow the unique terroir of each vineyard to surface. New oak is minimal, no more than 30% for the top cuvées, and much more restraint in the village wines and Bourgogne Blanc.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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Domaine la Croix Montjoie, Crémant de Bourgogne, Brut
This characterful Crémant de Bourgogne is made predominantly from Chardonnay, with a proportion of Pinot Noir, Gamay and Aligoté thrown in for good measure and additional complexity. It has an enticing quality, from the bouquet of white flowers through to the deliciously rounded palate: undeniably charming and definitely moreish.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2021 Berry Bros. & Rudd White Burgundy by Collovray & Terrier
This is a thirst-quenching and versatile white wine. Citrus, green apple and pear aromas combined with notes of fresh butter, subtle oak toast and chalky, wet-stone touches. Enjoy it with cheeses, salads, seafood and white meat dishes.
Drink 2022 - 2024
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2022 Berry Bros. & Rudd White Burgundy by Collovray & Terrier
The nose of our 2022 White Burgundy offers up a bouquet of juicy white stone fruit and subtle, toasty oak. Succulent peach and nectarine flavours fill the palate, tempered by zesty citrus and rounded out with notes of melted butter and a sizzling, iodine finish.
Drink now to 2026
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2021 Berry Bros. & Rudd Puligny-Montrachet by Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Burgundy
Jean-Louis Chavy has crafted a complex expression of this famous village. Fermented and aged in (20% new) oak, this is the archetypal elegant, floral and lacy Puligny. There’s a subtle perfume of white flowers and stone fruit; the palate is creamy, sophisticated and refreshing, with a spicy finish. This is perfect with Dover sole or creamy mushroom sauces.
Drink 2024 - 2030
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2019 Monthélie Blanc, Sous Le Cellier, Jean-Philippe Fichet
This is one of the best sites in the Hautes-Côtes. It’s south-facing and stony; Sébastien’s holdings have a lot of old vines. “Complexity Eisn’t a noun often associated with the Hautes-Côtes, but there’s clearly an extra dimension to this wine. It’s expressed by a sinewy structure overlaid by hints of turmeric and fulsome crunchy red fruits. Drink 2021-2027.
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Pale lemon colour. The bouquet is exuberant, with a little touch of liquorice and some acidity; this has density and quality, but what about personality? Good wine, as it happens, but I understand it is a hard sell.
Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (November 2020)