Italy
With its lofty sedimentary, calcareous and volcanic soils, noble autochthonous grapes bringing individual terroir to life, a peerless gastronomic culture and a rich viticultural heritage, Italy is at long last emerging from the shadow of neighbouring France to showcase its ancient and classic fine wines. The current crop of producers are placing a greater onus on authenticity to gently exalt the quality of the fruit and terroir.
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2016 Barolo, Castiglione, Vietti, Piedmont, Italy
The 2016 Barolo Castiglione is a dazzling wine that will show readers just how compelling this vintage is, even among entry-level wines from top producers. Rich, ample and explosive, the 2016 possesses tremendous richness and resonance from the very first taste. Bright red cherry and red plum fruit, wild flowers, mint, blood orange and spice build as this sumptuous, dramatic Barolo shows all it's got. As always, the Castiglione is built on a core of fruit from Ravera. In 2016, the Castiglione benefits from the inclusion of several new sites, including Ginestra, Mosconi, Bricco Ravera (in Monforte), Le Coste, Costabelle, Meriame, Briccolina and Codana. All I can say is: What a wine!
Antonio Galloni, vinous.com (November 2019){***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}[] Wine Advocate:: 94+/100
[] Vinous:: 94/100
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2010 Barolo, Monvigliero, Fratelli Alessandria, Piedmont
Pale cherry-red, the nose swoons with delicate notes of camphor and fresh, wild Amarena cherry, along with a fragrant rose-water character. To taste, this glides: it’s so pretty, so effortless with gentle redcurrant fruit and tannins so finely curated that they’re invisible.
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2011{vintage}
{ratings}[] Wine Advocate:: 94/100
{ratings}
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2012 Barolo, Villero, Riserva, Vietti, Piedmont
Vietti’s 2012 Barolo Riserva Villero is absolutely gorgeous. In 2012, the Villero is especially lifted and aromatic, showing a distinctly floral and red-toned expression of fruit rather than the darker, more balsamic inflections that are typical of this Castiglione Falletto cru. Light on its feet, fresh and graceful to its core, the Villero is another terrific wine from Vietti in 2012. Veins of Villero tannin and bright acids give the wine energy, vibrancy and tons of character. More than anything else, though, the 2012 Villero is a very clear continuation of a stylistic evolution that can be traced to the 2010 Barolo Ravera in which the Barolos are now made in a more traditional style than in the past, which includes malolactic fermentation in cask rather than barrique. In 2012, that approach was not in place for all the Barolos, but it is very much evident here. Drink 2022-2042. Antonio Galloni, Vinous (Jun 2019)
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2012{vintage}
{ratings} [] Vinous:: 95+/100
[] Jancis Robinson :: 17.5/20
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2012 Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione, Vietti, Piedmont
Of Vietti's new releases, this wine is most definitely the most shut down and less expressive at this young stage. The 2012 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione will require many years of bottle aging before it comes into its own. In general, many of the Barolo protagonists are sluggish in this vintage and this is a common theme. The bouquet moves slowly to release dark fruit, dried cherry, tobacco, grilled herb and pressed blue flowers. The mouth is powerful and determined, however, with solid structure and a tight build. Put this bottle at the back of your cellar.
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2012{vintage}
{ratings} [] Wine Advocate:: 94/100
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2012 Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione, Vietti, PiedmontPiedmont2012 Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione, Vietti, PiedmontBottle Price 75cl $1,094Was $1,215 -
2007 Barolo Le Vigne, Luciano Sandrone, Piedmont
The 2007 Barolo Le Vigne presented a beguiling combination of explosive, ripe fruit and finessed silky tannins, making it a thrilling wine to taste, even at this stage in its development. Small red berries, minerals, crushed flowers, vanillin and sweet spices are woven together in a fabric of indescribable elegance. The French oak has never been better balanced, while the vibrant, crystalline finish leaves a lasting impression. The 2007 Le Vigne has all the potential to develop into a spectacular wine; it already is. This is a stunning bottle of Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Luciano Sandrone’s wines have never been more elegant than they are today. The French oak is increasingly well balanced, and the at-times excessive heaviness of some prior vintages is long gone.
Simply put, Luciano Sandrone is at the top of his game. Never one to be satisfied, this year Sandrone showed me several experimental wines, including a barrel sample of 2009 Barolo Le Vigne vinified with 100% stems, an approach that is virtually unheard of in Piedmont. Although this wine will ultimately be blended into the Barolo Le Vigne, the all-stems Barolo was huge, explosive, and compelling. Sandrone fans have much to look forward to, as the 2008s and 2009s appear quite promising at this early stage. As for the 2007s, they are off the charts. Drink 2015 - 2027. Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate (February 2011)
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2007{vintage}
{ratings}
[] The Wine Advocate:: 96/100
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2007 Barolo Le Vigne, Luciano Sandrone, PiedmontPiedmont2007 Barolo Le Vigne, Luciano Sandrone, PiedmontBottle Price 75cl $1,184Was $1,315 -
2010 Flaccianello della Pieve, Tenuta Fontodi, Panzano, Tuscany
A rush of intense blue and black stone fruits, tobacco, smoke, licorice, spices and new leather hits the palate in the 2010 Flaccianello. A wine of considerable immediacy and intensity, the 2010 captivates all the senses with its magnificent richness and pure texture. There is so much to like here.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (May 2014)
{***}{region}Tuscany{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink Now{maturity-text} {vintage}2010{vintage}{***}{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 96/100
[] Vinous:: 96/100
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2016 Barolo, Badarina, Riserva, Piedmont
The Bruna Grimaldi 2016 Barolo Riserva Badarina sets off according to its own careful tempo, but it opens slowly to reveal not only the beauty and intensity of this classic vintage but also the power and depth of Serralunga d'Alba, home to some of Barolo's most impactful wines. The fruit used here comes specifically from the Vigna Regnola, which the Grimaldi family always vinifies separately, especially in the best vintages. This is a finely delineated and focused expression of Nebbiolo with a firm tannic backbone that supports dark fruit flavors, crushed stone, lilac and candied orange peel. I would recommend setting this bottle aside for another 5 to 10 years, giving it time to become more supple and smooth. A precious few 733 bottles were released. - Wine Advocate
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}laying-down{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage}
{ratings}[] Wine Advocate:: 95/100
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2016 Barolo, Badarina, Riserva, PiedmontPiedmont2016 Barolo, Badarina, Riserva, PiedmontBottle Price 75cl $535 -
2019 Ornellaia, Bolgheri, Tuscany
Charred caramel and liquorice aromatics, with sappy acidity accompanying generous olive tapenade, blackberry and raspberry fruits on the opening beats. Deceptively silky tannins, they are tactile and supple at first then close in through the mid palate, revealing a more serious Ornellaia with layers of graphite, savoury cassis, sage, bay leaf, underbrush and white truffle spices. A touch of sweet salted caramel returns after half an hour in the glass, this is well structured and will be giving its best after five or six years in bottle, and for several decades. A hot dry summer followed by cooler weather during harvest has given finesse and complexity, and a wine to savour. All varieties are aged separately for 12 months then blended and then put back in barrel for 6 months, followed by 12 months in bottle. 70% new oak. Director Axel Heinz, oenologist Olga Fusari. Drink 2026 to 2044.
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (March 2022)2019 Ornellaia, Bolgheri, TuscanyTuscany2019 Ornellaia, Bolgheri, TuscanyBottle Price 75cl $1,450 -
2005 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, PiedmontWhile vintage 2004 was darker and fulsome, Maria Teresa's 2005 lifts the soul with a spirited spicy red fruit perfume, a delicate, gentle, velvety cherry stone palate and a sublime quality that perhaps only the Cantina Mascarello Bartolo can muster. Getting ahead of the Oct 10th rain seemed key to performing well in 2005, after what was a relatively mild summer. This is perhaps an apt advertisement for the benefits of blending vineyards together, four into one; a philosophy the Cantina holds dear. An Englishman’s Barolo? It's certainly sings of finesse. Drinking till 2020, along with lamb (Maria Teresa's favourite meat).2005 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, PiedmontItaly2005 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, PiedmontBottle Price 75cl $3,095
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2011 Barolo, Vigna Rionda, Riserva, Massolino, Piedmont, Italy
Massolino's 2011 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is a more than worthy follow-up to the stellar 2010. Silky, perfumed and incredibly inviting, the 2011 will also give up its considerable charms much earlier. Sweet red cherry, rose petal, spice, hard candy, and mint give the 2011 its inner sweetness. Above all else, the 2011 captures a compelling middle ground that balances the warmth of the year with a classic sense of structure. The 2011 is a racy, alluring Rionda that will be nearly impossible to resist, even young.
Brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino decided to give their single-vineyard 2013 Barolos a bit more time in barrel than normal. Tasted from bottle, those wines are every bit as impressive as they were from barrel. Massolino has made compelling Barolos for several decades. Still, in recent years, they have made additional investments that include a greater focus on quality, acquiring more vineyards and completing a significant cellar expansion. As for the wines themselves, they have never been better.
Drink 2021 - 2036
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (October 2017)
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2014 Etna Rosso, Arcurìa, Graci, Sicily, Italy
Grown at 600 metres above sea-level on rocky lava soils, there is a delicacy to the form of this wine that belies its concentration. Perfumed cherry fruit and citrus peel layer with coal and refreshing acidity. It’s very persistent.
Mount Etna is the perfect example of how nature can truly affect a wine and render it breath-taking. Alberto Graci has created his Etna Rosso using traditional methods that ensure high quality, but enviable yields. The indigenous varieties sing through, with Nerello Mascalese offering bright, vivacious red fruits, with an almost endless depth, tempered by a measure of Nerello Cappuccio that offers roundness, and a slight, endearing candied note, finishing with a creamy kiss of oak. This is a must for Burgundy lovers looking for something fun and vibrant, or, indeed, Italian wine lovers looking for the perfect wine to serve alongside a good roast or barbecue.
Drink now
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2014 Barbaresco, Sorì Tildìn, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy
Sweet rose petal, mint, chiseled red-toned fruit and chalk give the 2014 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn its sculpted, brilliant personality. All the elements are in the right place. A wine of translucent energy and weightless elegance, the Sorì Tildìn is hauntingly beautiful today. A host of floral notes and red berry fruit infuse the persistent, chiseled finish in this fabulous Barbaresco. As it so often is, the Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a wine of pure charm and seduction.
Drink 2026 - 2044
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (October 2017)
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2016 Langhe Nebbiolo, Mascarello Giuseppe & Figli, Piedmont, Italy
The Mascarello family has crafted a silky and fine red wine that presents impressive elegance, but it's also very accessible at the same time. The easy-to-drink 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo offers a juicy core of dark fruit and cassis surrounded by delicate tones of ash, flint, licorice and smoke. Despite those dusty aromas, there is a great sense of inner energy and zest that emerges from the very core of this textbook Nebbiolo.
Monica Larner - 29/06/2018
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2016 Barbaresco, Fausoni, Sottimano, Piedmont, Italy
The Fausoni zone provides sandy and clay soils, and you get more power here than from the other locations. These vines are 35 to 40 years old, and the 2016 Barbaresco Fausoni lets fly those menthol notes that are so characteristic of this vineyard in Neive.
Slightly more balsamic in its aromatic profile than the other Barbarescos, this expression of Nebbiolo, sitting sur lies for two years, shows a very different tannic feel in a wine that offers surprising freshness and purity.
Those minty Neive notes, its direct and linear nature, plus the very precise and sharply managed tannins make this cru a winner in my book. Some 6,000 bottles were made.
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (June 2019)
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2017 Barolo, Sperss, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy
The 2017 Barolo Sperss is a powerful, backward wine. In 2017 Sperss is not as huge as in some previous years, but then again, the move towards greater finesse has been in place for some time now. In tasting, Sperss feels more extracted and tannic than Conteisa (even after allowing for the clear differences in site), with a strong oak imprint that is also pretty evident. Sage, tobacco, scorched earth and spice meld into a core of dark Serralunga fruit in this imposing Barolo from Gaja. Give it a few years to soften.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
2017 Barolo, Sperss, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy2017 Barolo, Sperss, Gaja, Piedmont, ItalyBottle Price 75cl $2,050 -
2020 Arcurìa, Etna Rosso, Graci, Sicily, Italy
This amphitheatric vineyard sits between 600-700m also on a variety of volcanic soils. These low yielding vines yield tiny quantities of Nerello grapes, Alberto manages to vinify the essence of this extreme terroir, and character of the capricious grape. 40 days of maceration following fermentation infuse this incredible wine with the sweet but china-fine like tannins. Although light on its feet, there is real substance to this wine, chewy cherry, loose leaf tea, tobacco chinotto are kept in suspense by a spine of mineral tension, and propelled by a sunny Sicilian soul.
Drink 2024 - 2034
Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2020 Barbaresco, Roncaglie, Fletcher, Piedmont, Italy
The 2020 Barbaresco Roncaglie shows a distinctly earthy, savoury expression of Barbaresco, with the fruit pushed more into the background than it is in some of the other wines in the range. Dried herbs, flowers, mint, macerated cherry and sweet pipe tobacco all open in the glass. The Roncaglie is not an overt wine, rather it is a Barbaresco built on subtlety and nuance.
There are the best Barbarescos I have tasted from Dave Fletcher. It is not easy for an outsider to establish themselves in Piedmont, which makes these wines doubly impressive.
Drink 2024 - 2035
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (October 2023)
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2017 Barolo, Conteisa, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy
The 2017 Barolo Conteisa is rich, ample and inviting. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and dried flowers lend captivating aromatic presence to the Gaja family's La Morra Barolo. Even so, the 2017 is quite closed today, which is rather unusual for a wine that is typically far more open in the early going. That's probably a good sign for the future, though. Time in the glass brings out the classic Conteisa red-toned fruit profile. More than anything else, I am so impressed with how the 2017 gets better and better with air. This is a terrific showing. Sadly, production is down by about 50% because of severe selection.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous2017 Barolo, Conteisa, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy2017 Barolo, Conteisa, Gaja, Piedmont, ItalyBottle Price 75cl $1,980 -
2016 Barbaresco, Cottá, Sottimano, Piedmont, Italy
Fun fact: The accent mark on this vineyard's original name was what the Italians call an accento acuto (accent aigu, for francophiles), as in Cottá, an unusual diacritical mark to stick over an "a" in Italian. So the opposite-slanting and more common accento grave was printed on vineyard maps and wine labels starting in the 1990s, and with all the success it has had, Sottimano thinks the normalized punctuation might actually bring good luck.
This is the trademark wine of this estate for its elegance, power and finesse. With an extra gear in terms of intensity, right off the bat the 2016 Barbaresco Cottá brings fullness and generosity. There are wonderful notes of mint and liquorice to it, a streamlined wine with a great deal of purity. It's got a lot of volume and even more dimension. There is also that pretty salty mineral note on the close. Some 9,000 bottles were made.
Drink 2021 - 2038
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (June 2019)
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2011 Barbaresco, Pajé, Riserva, Produttori del Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy
One of the highlights in this range, the 2011 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is also one of the most classic of these 2011 Riservas. Beams of underlying acidity and minerality give the flavors considerable thrust and brightness. Sweet mentholated notes wrap around a core of plush, red-fleshed plum and pomegranate fruit, leading to a brisk, refreshing finish. What is left to say? The 2011 Pajè is absolutely gorgeous. It's as simple as that. Pajè is one of the cooler micro-climates the Produttori work with, and that was a help in 2011. - Vinous
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2019 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Le Vigne, Faraone, Abruzzo, Italy
Abruzzo’s most famous red wine, Federico’s, is crafted from two different sites: a fresher, hilltop vineyard that gives perfume and elegance and traditional pergola vines that give broader fruit structure.
After fermentation in an inox tank, the wine is aged for two years in large oak botti. The results are a multi-layered expression of Montepulciano, aromatically complex: baked earth, heady spices, and dark berry fruits. Deep in colour, the palate has real depth. Wild spices, loaded with baked and bright black fruits, are framed by soft, chewy, coco-coated, damson-like tannins. Perfect with strong cheese or spicy tomato-based pasta dishes.
Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Brunello di Montalcino, Scopetone, Tuscany, Italy
This comes from Brunello’s original Scarnacuoia vineyards, which are some of the coolest in the region. Yields were lower in 2018, the colour lighter and alcohol lower, yet there is still focus in this wine The old vines give this Brunello an enchanting nose: cinotto, blue fruits, mineral details and smoky depth.
Three years in large 33hl oak botti, followed by 12 months in cement, allow the wine to relax and smooth. The results are bright, open and composed: peaches and glossy red berries with the bite of pomegranate. The tannins are softer and cleansing than many vintages, while the finish is extended by floral high notes and a minty mineral tang.
Drink 2023 - 2038
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Tassi, Tuscany, Italy
The vintage’s heat gave intensity to the grapes, but the vines’ proximity to the river and cold mountain winds retained freshness and phenolic maturity. Wild fermentation in concrete, 10% whole-bunch and 25 months in botti grande make for a stylish Brunello. Dense, dark fruit, earthy detail and floral highlights melt into a firm frame with juicy velvet tannins.
Drink 2024 - 2032
Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2023 Moscato d'Asti, Marcarini, Piedmont, Italy
Only 5% alcohol, this very gently sparkling wine is fully sweet, with 131g/L residual sugar. It's a delightfully fresh style though, not in the least bit unctuous. Bright and aromatic on the nose with peach and lemon sherbet, and white flowers. Perfect for summer, it's a great match for fruit salads, pastries and birthday cake.
Drink 2024 - 2026
Amy Wislocki, Decanter.com (April 2024)
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2016 Brunello di Montalcino, Gemini, Riserva, La Serena, Tuscany, Italy
This is a strict single-vineyard selection from the top of the farm. It’s always last to be harvested. Twenty days of natural fermentation and gentle maceration are followed by 36 months in the same 71-hectolitre botti. The 2016 vintage is intense and beautifully elegant. Savoury and weighty with spiced coffee notes and minerality, this needs time.
Drink 2026 - 2045
Davy Żyw, Senior Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Feb 2022)
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2014 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, PiedmontHere is another very successful expression from one of the appellation's legendary estates at the heart of Barolo. The 2014 Barolo is light and delicate in appearance with a delightful bouquet of wild rose, forest berry and blue fruit. Violets and lavender give the bouquet a pretty sense of lift and intensity that reminds you of the cool climate and long growing season that characterizes this vintage. This wine also offers evident freshness with bright berry flavors and a subtle feeling of crisp crunchiness. The tannins are superbly integrated within the silky and streamlined body of this elegant Barolo. This wine will surely offer exciting bottle evolution.2014 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, PiedmontItaly2014 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, PiedmontBottle Price 75cl $2,395
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2017 Berry Bros. & Rudd Barolo by Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont, Italy
This is a classic blend of three Barolo communes, showcasing the quality and complexity of the region’s vineyards. The commune of Barolo gives chewy power and fruit depth; Castiglione Falletto lifts the nose with floral charm; and the ancient white soils of Serralunga d’Alba give an unmistakable mineral grip. This is a succulent vintage with notes of roses, ripe red fruits and cloves.
Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2017 Berry Bros. & Rudd Brunello di Montalcino by La Màgia, Tuscany, Italy
Our Brunello is made by Fattoria La Màgia. Here at this small organic estate, Fabian Schwarz creates terroir-focused wines from Sangiovese grown at high altitudes. This 2017 Brunello is graceful, with a heady nose of black cherries, smoky pepper and dried flowers. On the palate, succulent forest fruits and juicy plums are framed by tight, glossy tannins. It is vividly tangy and fresh with a stony, mineral grip.
Drink now to 2032
Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2006 Barolo, Pira, Riserva, Roagna, Piedmont, Italy
The 2006 Barolo Pira Riserva Black Label is a tiny selection of about 2,400 bottles that spent five years in cask and then a decade in cement. Dense, exotic and beautifully layered, the Riserva captures that sense of timelessness that is often a signature of the Roagna wines - a place in time in which wines are both aged and young at the same time.
The co-existence of two different worlds defines many of the best wines here. Spice, orange zest, chocolate, spice, star anise and sweet pipe tobacco lend nuance to a wine just entering its first plateau of maturity.
Drink 2021 - 2036
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (October 2021)
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2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva, Conti Costanti, Tuscany, Italy
The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva emerges from the glass with freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, liquorice and spices, all wrapped around a sensual, elegant frame of the notable class. Considerable aeration is needed to bring out the wine’s depth and textural richness. This is an excellent wine, but more often than not I am attracted more to the straight Brunello here, as is the case again in 2006. Costanti gave the 2006 Riserva 36 months in oak, 18 months in medium-sized barrels, followed by 18 months in cask.
Drink 2016 - 2026
Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate (April 2012)
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2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva, Biondi-Santi, Tuscany, Italy
This is a re-release of a wine that first hit the market some seven years ago. The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is being reintroduced to the market, with only 2,500 bottles. This is a stunning wine that absolutely merits this considerable score increase. Made when dottore Franco Biondi Santi was alive and very present in the winery, this wine shows spectacular elegance and finesse, articulated with fine aromas of forest berry, blue flower, eucalyptus and lightly barbecued smoke. The wine shows extreme Sangiovese elegance and purity, and while the wine is almost fragile in approach, it ultimately reveals more brawn, volume and staying-power than anticipated. - Wine Advocate 98/100
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2006 Toscana Sangiovese, Soldera Case Basse, Italy
A legendary wine from Montalcino's greatest producer, the 2006 Sangiovese (labelled as IGT as they had left the Brunello consorzio) is enticingly perfumed. The silky texture and dark sweet fruit hide the framework of strong (but fine) tannins and fresh acidity lifts the wine.
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2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva, Conti Costanti, Tuscany, Italy
The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wraps around the palate with gorgeous depth. Plums, smoke, liquorice, tobacco and mocha all develop in the glass. The 2007 gives the impression of being shaped a little more by the oak because of its voluptuous texture. A huge, explosive finish rounds things out nicely. This is an especially bombastic, rich wine for Costanti, but it is also quite fine and loaded with personality. There is plenty of pedigree in the glass. Still, more often than not, I find myself gravitating towards the straight Brunello bottling here.
Drink 2015 - 2027
Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate (June 2013)
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2012 Barolo, Francia, Giacomo Conterno, Piedmont, Italy
Since the 2010 vintage, this wine is named Francia (not Cascina Francia) to keep with the new Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (or official cru naming) in Barolo and Barbaresco. The 2012 Barolo Francia is a seductive and silky expression that flows gracefully over the palate with power and determination.
The nose is expressive, and decidedly more articulate than many of the more muted wines made by neighboring estates in this warm vintage. The quality of the mouthfeel is of special interest. This beautiful Barolo already shows stunning texture, richness and integrity, despite this very early preview tasting.
I tasted this wine in barrel shortly before bottling.
Drink 2020 - 2050
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (June 2016)
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2012 Barolo, Vigna Rionda, Riserva, Massolino, Piedmont, Italy
Readers will find a silky, nuanced Barolo in the 2012 Riserva Vigna Rionda. Rose water, orange zest, cinnamon, sage, mint and dried cherry are some of the many nuances that give the 2012 its aromatic top notes, and all of the elements fall into place effortlessly. Relatively open-knit for a young Rionda, this should drink well with minimal cellaring. The 2012 doesn't quite have the explosive energy of vintages like 2010, 2013 or 2014, but it will offer tons of pleasure sooner than any of those wines. I loved it.
Massolino has really been on a roll over the last few vintages. The 2014s are truly impressive wines that further solidify the estate's place among the elite producers of Barolo. While these wines have been terrific for quite some time, in recent years Massolino has found an added element of finesse and nuance. Readers should note that Massolino did not bottle their Barolo Parussi in 2014.
Drink 2022 - 2037
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (February 2018)
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2014 Barbaresco, Costa Russi, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy
Soft contours, silky tannins and sweet, perfumed fruit are some of the signatures in the 2014 Costa Russi. As always, Costa Russi is the most polished and open-knit of these wines in its youth. Succulent fruit, hard candy and lifted, perfumed aromatics give the 2014 considerable early appeal, but I expect time in bottle will work its usual magic. Today, the 2014 is showing only the barest hint of its potential. Even in the early going, though, the Costa Russi is a totally sexy wine.
The Gaja family's 2014 Barbarescos are more than worthy follow ups to the stellar 2013s. The 2014s also show a bit more stylistic cohesion throughout the range than was the case with the 2013s. Overall, the 2014s are defined by their energy, tension and brilliant personalities. As good as Gaja's cru wines are, the straight Barbaresco - which is a blend of many top sites - is as good or nearly as good as those wines. It is also much more accessibly priced, even if none of these wines can be defined as inexpensive. Sadly, yields are down 35% across the board for the 2014s.
Drink 2024 - 2044
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (October 2017)
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2017 Barolo, Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Piedmont, Italy
The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2017 Barolo (showing some of the gold medals and awards won for past vintages in the artwork depicted on the front label) offers a traditional and time-honored approach to Nebbiolo. It draws its fruit from various sites in Verduno. This is a soft and pliant expression that produces a long and fine succession of wild cherry, blue flower, crushed stone and anise-like aromas. You might also notice some rusty iron or candied apricot. This is a solid Barolo (with 10,000 bottles released) that vaunts a classic and traditional personality despite the hot vintage. Drink: 2024-2038. - Wine Advocate:: 93/100
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2017 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy
A heady perfume of meaty red fruit and spice rises from the glass on the bouquet. Rich and mouth-filling on the palate, a real vino di piacere with ripe red and black, spicy fruit vying for attention, brought together by rapier-like acidity and meltingly fine tannins. This delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese blend from Bolgheri is not trying to be Sassicaia nor Ornellaia; it’s very much its own wine, more akin to Tignanello, but different again from the wine from Chianti Classico. It’s a delightful wine—delicious now but capable of up to a decade’s cellaring.
Drink 2024 - 2032
Chris Pollington, Senior Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
A pronounced bouquet swarms the glass with generous notes of ripe red fruit, black cherry, herbal notes and touches of cedar. Grattamacco were among the first to blend Cabernet into their wines in Bolgheri. They have been mastering these blends far longer than the likes of other Super Tuscans; this is a wine with fantastic depth and richness, silky integrated tannins and brilliant intensity. I was rather impressed with this wine; I must agree with the critics on this one. It’s really pleasurable to drink now, but of course, it will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.
Drink 2024 - 2032
Joshua Friend, Senior Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Barolo, Castelletto, Mauro Veglio, Piedmont, Italy
This Monforte site has one of the highest proportions of limestone in Barolo. It sits directly opposite Serralunga, across the valley. Whole bunches were used again, to give more fruit and softer tannins; but the Monforte aspect still appears, with refined, balsamic notes, but nothing savoury. There’s a bit of muscle, without being too sinewy.
Drink 2025 - 2038
Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Director, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Barolo, Figli Luigi Oddero, Piedmont, Italy
This release is a blend of some of the best vineyards in Barolo. 45% is from Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, giving incredible perfume and fine, sweet tannins. The remaining blend comes from Rive, La Morra, which offers a darker fruit profile; and from their four prized vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, giving depth, energy and saline minerality. Francesco’s sensitive winemaking shines through.
Drink 2023 - 2036
Adrian Brice, Fine Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Chianti Classico, Filetta di Lamole, Fontodi, Tuscany, Italy
Within the Fontodi portfolio, this wine is the outlier, and it should be considered as such. The organic 2018 Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole sources its fruit from a cooler growing site that is very different from the sun-drenched basin known as the Conca d'Oro in Panzano. Vineyards in Lamole are perched at a higher elevation, at a breezy 600 meters above sea level, and the soils see a greater presence of sandstone. This wine shows lots of brightness and resonance over a snappy, lean-bodied style. The bouquet delivers blue flower, wild cherry and rose. It ages in large oak casks for two years. Production is 20,000 bottles. 2021-2026. - Wine Advocate 91/100
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2018 Brunello di Montalcino, Tassi, Tuscany, Italy
This comes from a single vineyard, tucked between the River Orcia and the hilltop Castelnuovo dell’Abate at 240 metres altitude. Here, the strata of soils are mix of iron-rich clay and galestro, filled with calcareous marine fossils. The 2018 vintage gave beautiful balance, without the blocky richness of 2017. It’s undergone wild fermentation in concrete, and 30 days on skins followed by 30 months in ultra traditional Slovenian botti grandi. The colour is pale, and the nose is perfumed with cool rose. The palate shines with savoury fruit, relaxed, composed and confident with a light mineral brightness and fine earthiness. The finish is smoky and super stylish.
Drink 2023 - 2038
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Barolo, Ravera, G.D. Vajra, Piedmont, Italy
This comes from a five-hectare plot with a mix of soil types, located in a south to south-east facing amphitheatre at an altitude of 320-340 meters. It’s rich and ripe on the nose, with plush sweet fruit, smoky savoury spice and a balsamic lift. A wine of deceptive power, with drive and vibrant energy, and a touch of salinity on the finish.
Drink 2026 - 2040
Adrian Brice, Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2018 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy
In 2018 we return to a more classical style in Bolgheri, with great freshness and complexity. Due to this, it is one of winemaker Luca Marrone’s favourite vintages. Naturally fermented in open top tinelli, this is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot 15% Sangiovese. Blackcurrant, redcurrant, wild mint, dried roses and cherry smoke entice on the nose. The palate also has incredible elegance. Vivid fruit, red cherry and bramble are enveloped in fine tannins – all polished by 18 months in French oak.
Drink 2022 - 2040
Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2019 Rosso di Montalcino, Casanova di Neri, Tuscany, Italy
Crushed black cherries and hints of wild strawberry waft up from the 2019 Rosso di Montalcino, with smoky minerals and savory herbs evolving in the glass. Its textures are fleshy and soft, caressing the senses with ripe red fruits, as brisk acids create a juicy expression. Nothing is out of place in this high-energy, fun and fruit-forward Rosso, which finishes wonderfully fresh, framed by a hint of tart berries clinging to the palate.
Drink 2022 - 2025
Eric Guido, Vinous.com (November 2020)
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2020 Rosso di Montalcino, Poggio di Sotto, Tuscany, Italy
Spontaneously fermented in large Garbellotto botti, the wine was kept on skins for a month before spending a further 19 months refining in botti. The nose wields intense aromatics, wild fruits, small flowers, earthy depth and balsamic brightness. The palate is tight, with ceramic-like tannins, compelling fruit charm and savoury complexity, superior to many Brunelli of the region. Brunello intensity meats Burgundian finesse.
Drink now to 2035
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2020 Barbera d'Alba, Scudetto, Mascarello Giuseppe & Figlio, Piedmont, Italy
Magenta/purple-coloured, the ripe and spicy 2020 Barbera D'Alba Scudetto is fruity with fresh blackberries peppery spice, violets, and dusty earth. Medium-bodied and silky, it’s pure and long on the palate, with great intensity and a mouthwatering, warming finish. It is damn tasty now and will drink well over the next 8-10 years.
Drink 2024 - 2034
Audrey Frick, JebDunnuck.com (May 2024)
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2021 Il Bruciato, Bolgheri, Guado al Tasso, Antinori, Tuscany, Italy
This is a dark and concentrated edition of Il Bruciato. Bursting with blackberry, black plum and vibrant cherry touches. Some sweet spice and vanilla too. A portion of the Merlot and Syrah were fermented at slightly lower temperatures in order to protect varietal expressiveness and lighter, pretty aromas.
This keeps the wine in check brilliantly and provides balance. The blend for 2021 also includes some of the estate’s prized Cabernet Franc and a little Petit Verdot. A little bit of patience here will be key. This has a great future ahead of it.
Drink 2024 – 2031
Charlie Leech, Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2021 Langhe Nebbiolo, Fogliati, Piedmont, Italy
Annalisa’s Langhe Nebbiolo comes from a 30-year-old, east-facing vineyard, which faces up towards Castiglione Falletto. Soils here are like those of the estate’s viewpoint, with layers of sand and mineral clay, which give perfume and elegance. The wine was fermented in steel tank, and spent six months in 25 hectolitre botti. This is crunchy and pure, with juicy berry flavours, firm floral edges and a bite of blood orange.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, Piedmont (Artist Label) - Slight label damage
Maria-Theresa Mascarello's 2011 Barolo is one of the more refined wines of the year, with less size than many other 2011s and plenty of immediacies. Racy and giving on the palate but with a good underlying structure, 2011 impresses for its juxtaposition of the riper elements of the vintage and more classic attributes that are such signatures at this address.
Bright red stone fruits, strawberries and crushed flowers are some notes that grace the exquisite finish. 2011 is an excellent choice to drink while some more age-worthy recent vintages sleep in the cellar. I will not be surprised to see 2011 improve from where it is today.
Drink 2018 - 2041
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (November 2014)
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2017 Barbaresco, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy
The Gaja 2017 Barbaresco is nuanced and delicate with ever-expanding aromatic intensity that amply fills the balloon of your glass. The wine takes a little while to open fully, and it slowly releases forest berry, powdered licorice, toasted aniseed, spearmint, dried lavender and rosemary essence to build a lasting bouquet. The mouthfeel is streamlined and almost steely, with an extremely linear approach that adds to its length and persistency. The tannins are tucked into the wine's delicate fiber, but you do feel the extra textural firmness of the hot vintage nonetheless. As we have seen in past vintages, more definition is added by a pretty mineral note that is a common thread in these wines from Gaja. - Wine Advocate
2017 Barbaresco, Gaja, Piedmont, ItalyItaly2017 Barbaresco, Gaja, Piedmont, ItalyBottle Price 75cl $1,580 -
2016 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiona
Cerbaiona was bought in the fall of 2015 by a large group of friends led by Gary Rieschel and Matthew Fioretti. The latter was the owner of Summa Vitis, a US wine import company, which he closed in 2009 in order to fulfill his dream of being a full-time wine producer. Fioretti couldn’t have been any happier when Cerbaiona, one of Montalcino’s most admired estates, came up for sale. Reportedly, the group paid an astronomical 5.8 million euros for the property, which has made some of Montalcino’s most sought after Brunellos in the last twenty years. However, anyone visiting the estate didn’t have any trouble realizing that the failing health and increasing age of owners Diego and Nora Molinari had led to a slightly rundown feel at the winery and that work was needed in the vineyards too (the day I visited, Fioretti greeted me in work clothes as he had been busy working in the vineyards up until that moment). The estate has replanted another 1.4 hectares Sangiovese (sourced from France’s famous Guillaume nursery) to add to the three hectares it currently owns. Fioretti has also bought some new barrels, and is looking to use 10, 17 and 20 Hl oak barrels (Molinari used to use smaller 500L tonneaux).- Vinous 2017
{***}{region}Tuscany{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2016{vintage} {ratings} []Jancis Robinson :: 17.5+/20 {ratings} {***}
2016 Brunello di Montalcino, CerbaionaTuscany2016 Brunello di Montalcino, CerbaionaBottle Price 75cl $1,500 -
2017 Barbaresco, Asili, Vecchie Viti, Roagna, Piedmont
A tightly wound yet succulent Barbaresco with aromas of graphite macerated plum and cherry giving way to rose hip mineral and more fruit flavors. Packs plenty of energy courtesy of the firm vibrant structure. Long complex finish. Bordering on racy with terrific harmony and class. Best from 2025 through 2043. 94 cases made. - Wine Spectator
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color} Red{color} {maturity}ready-improve{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings}
{ratings} {***}
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2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Scopetone, Tuscany
Scarnacuoia’s old vines give this a captivating perfume, mineral detail and depth. Three years in botti and 12 months in cement allow the wine to relax and smooth out. This is vivid, open and composed; glossy cherry, peach and pomegranate fill out a firm frame. The finish is extended by dried floral spice and a minty mineral tang.
Drink 2024 - 2034
Davy Żyw, Senior Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Feb 2022)
{***}{region}Tuscany{region} {color}Red{color} {maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will improve{maturity-text} {vintage}2017{vintage} {ratings} []Vinous:: 92/100
[]Decanter:: 92/100
{ratings} {***}
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2021 Moscato d'Asti, Marcarini, Piedmont
Brilliant straw-yellow color with soft green reflections. A delicate white froth evolves into a very fine and persistent perlage. Its full nose is aromatic, floral and fruity as well as intense and persistent. The taste, which is pleasantly sweet and refreshing due to the low alcohol content and correct acidity, is smooth and rich with musky sensations typical of the Moscato grape - the wine's aromatic persistence is very long and intense. This is the dessert wine par excellence and it pairs well with fresh pastries and cakes, traditional panettone, all kinds of baked desserts as well as fruit.
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}White{color} {maturity}drink-now{maturity} {maturity-text}Drink now{maturity-text} {vintage}2021{vintage}{***}
2021 Moscato d'Asti, Marcarini, PiedmontPiedmont2021 Moscato d'Asti, Marcarini, PiedmontBottle Price 75cl $145 -
2014 Barbaresco, La Spinetta, Valeirano
From the Treiso township, the 2014 Barbaresco Valeirano Vürsù represents a stylistic marriage of the elegant Gallina and the more powerful Starderi crus (both in the Neive township). This is a compact and fine Nebbiolo with a mid-weight style and slightly sweet tannins. In terms of its flavor profile, the wine shows savory spice and barbecue smoke followed by blackberry and dried cherry. In a sense, this wine borrows the best attributes of the other two Barbaresco expressions also reviewed in this report. - The Wine Advocate
{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color} Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2014{vintage}
{ratings}
[] The Wine Advocate:: 94/100
[] James Suckling:: 92/100
[] Wine Spectator:: 91/100
{ratings}
{***}
2014 Barbaresco, La Spinetta, ValeiranoPiedmont2014 Barbaresco, La Spinetta, ValeiranoBottle Price 75cl $985 -
2001 Sorì San Lorenzo, Langhe Nebbiolo, Angelo Gaja, Piedmont
The 2001 Sori San Lorenzo is the richest and deepest of these 2001s. It remains cool, inward and totally implosive. Dark fruit, leather, goudron and licorice are some of the notes that begin to emerge over time. The 2001 is dazzling, but it is also very much on the muscular side and needs time to soften. I imagine it will drink beautifully for another 20 years, and that is likely to be conservative in light of the glacial pace with which the San Lorenzo ages. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034.
Antonio Galloni - 26/04/2012{***}{region}Piedmont{region} {color}Red{color}
{maturity}ready-keep{maturity} {maturity-text}Ready, but will keep{maturity-text} {vintage}2001{vintage}
{ratings} [] The Wine Advocate:: 96/100 {ratings}
{***}
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2022 Berry Bros. & Rudd Gavi di Gavi by Roberto Sarotto, Piedmont
The dry and warm vintage suited the Cortese grape, which retained freshness due to the mineral-rich white soils here. This is delicate and finessed, with bright aromas of spring flowers, yellow peach and citrus, and a refreshingly mineral finish. Vibrant and elegant, this is a quintessential Northern Italian white.
Davy Żyw, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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2015 Barbaresco, Gaja, Piedmont, Italy
Gaja's 2015 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Deep, pliant and resonant, the 2015 exudes class from the very first taste. Today, the aromatics are not especially open or expressive, but it is the wine's depth and overall sense of harmony that really carry the day. Hints of orange peel, spice and rosewater give the 2015 an exotic aromatic top register that is hugely appealing. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this gem. The 2015 is a wonderfully complete and harmonious wine, but it really does need a few years in the cellar to fully unwind. - Vinous
2015 Barbaresco, Gaja, Piedmont, ItalyItaly2015 Barbaresco, Gaja, Piedmont, ItalyBottle Price 75cl $1,580