2018 Santenay, Cuvée "S", David Moreau, Burgundy

This is from two very different vineyards: David has 0.8 hectares of 35-year-old vines in Les Cornières on glacial alluvial spoil from the combe, and 0.15 hectares in Charmes-Dessus on complex limestone, all planted in the 1980s. Here the spiciness is complemented by black fruits, and there is a final lift of sweet red fruit on the finish from 15% whole-bunch. Drink 2021-2026.