2010 Château Suduiraut, Sauternes, Bordeaux

90% Sémillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Harvested 22 September to 9 November 5 tris). Yield 20 hl/ha. Aged 20 months in oak barrels 50% new, 50% one year). RS 145 g/l, TA 3.6.

Rich and intense but less giving than 2009 at the moment. Unctuous and fat on the palate with plenty of reserve. It misses a little freshness but has plenty of matière for ageing. Worth waiting.

Drink 2020 - 2040

Bright, pale yellow-gold. Captivating aromas of tropical fruits, vanilla and creme brulee are complicated by honeyed botrytis. It enters the mouth smoothly, balanced, and fresh, showing building sweetness and complexity in its pure, rich mango, papaya, ginger, and citrus flavours. This large-scaled Sauternes admirably combines power and grace, finishing pure and long.

Jean-Rene Martignon, technical director of the AXA-Millesime properties, told me that the grapes were harvested in five successive tries: the first yielded four barrels of wine with very pure botrytis and high acidity, while seven days later, a second trie gave more concentrated juice, but both of these passes through the vines went into the estate's second wine, Castelnau de Suduiraut.

Expressive fruity nose in this top Sauternes with ripe orange, apricot and pineapple. Candied orange peel, white peach and orange blossom. This Sauternes is elegant and with wonderfully balanced sweetness on the palate. Good structure and length. Vibrant acidity and lots of spice in the excellent finish. Excellent.

Drink or hold

13.8% alcohol, 145gm/L residual sugar.Tasted at the Suduiraut vertical at the château.

The 2010 Suduiraut, picked from 22 September until 9 November in five tries through the vineyard, has a drop-dead gorgeous bouquet that is delineated and detailed. There are copious scents of dried honey, apricot, white peach and just a hint of melted candle wax. The palate is very well balanced with great depth. It boasts layers of rich botrytised fruit; you can feel the weight here but not the heaviness, thanks to that killer line of acidity. This 2010 has long been one of the finest Sauternes of the vintage and continues to amaze. Fabulous, even if not quite up there with the imperious 2009.

Drink 2020 - 2065

One of the highest points of this vertical tasting, the 2010 Suduiraut reveals a dense, powerful bouquet of ripe apricots, exotic fruit, mango, pineapple, saffron and spices. More solar than the 2009 and with a full-bodied structure, it’s rich and concentrated, layered and seamless with a fleshy core of fruit and stunning controlled power, finishing long and mineral with bright acids. This stunning blend of 90% Sémillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, harvested between September 22 and November 9 in five tries, was matured for 20 months in oak barrels 50% new, 50% one year) and contains 145 grams per litre of residual sugar.

Drink 2020 - 2060