ready-improve2017 Riesling, Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen, Abts E, Grosses Gewächs, Keller, Rheinhessen, Germany

Seed-inflected Meyer lemon, iodine, chalk, fusel oil and struck flint feature on the nose. That same cast of characters reprises with almost painfully concentrated piquancy, brightness and medicinal-mineral saturation on a palpably extract-rich palate. Only after some aeration does a hint of site-typical florality emerge, in the form of bittersweet perfume backed by hothouse greenery. In keeping with a vintage 2017 trend at this address – but a trend accentuated in this instance – the finish is detonative in its vibrant conveyance of energy as well as striking in its impression of chalk and stone suffusion. But beyond that, it offers mouthwatering salinity and a virtually kaleidoscopic cycle of further, ineffable mineral impressions. Drink: 2019-2037. - Vinous