Bordeaux
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Bordeaux is the centre of the fine wine world. The maritime climate on the 45th parallel offers perfect conditions for growing grapes fit for classically-constructed, long-lasting wines. This vast region is home to 10,000 wine producers and 57 different AOCs. Red – or ‘Claret’ as it’s known – now comprises 88 percent of Bordeaux wine. Then there is the district of Sauternes making some of the most outstanding sweet white wines anywhere.
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2010 L'Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne, BarsacWith 12.2% alcohol and 212 gms residual sugar, the LExtravagant de Doisy-Daene consists of 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Semillion. It has a very taut, controlled bouquet that (pardon the expression) is less extravagant than recent vintages, but is beautifully defined with touches of kiwi fruit, green apple and limestone. The palate is mellifluous on the entry, struck through with brilliant acidity, lending it such tension and freshness that is in tune with the vintage. Denis hopes to have nine barrels of this fabulous Barsac.
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2010 L'Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne, BarsacBordeaux2010 L'Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne, BarsacBottle Price 37.5cl $1,695 -
2016 Les Lions de Suduiraut, Sauternes
The pale lemon coloured 2016 Lions de Suduiraut gives up quite earthy scents of fungi, moss and fallen leaves over a core of peach preserves, dried apricots, poached pears and orange marmalade. The palate is beautifully layered with stone fruit and citrus notions, framed with just enough freshness, finishing long and earthy.
Drink 2019 - 2033
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate (March 2019)2016 Les Lions de Suduiraut, Sauternes2016 Les Lions de Suduiraut, SauternesBottle Price 37.5cl $198 -
2021 Pagodes de Cos Blanc, Bordeaux
Sauvignon Blanc 85%, Sémillon 15%.
This is produced in small volumes. It comes from vines in the Port de Goulée in the northern Médoc, by the mouth of the Gironde Estuary. Some vines are as old as 37. This Sauvignon-dominated blend has a tropical nose, with ripe apricots, mangoes, gooseberries and a hint of ginger spice. The palate is rich and juicy but balanced by a fresh burst of acidity and a saline finish.
Drink 2023 - 2038
Our score: 16/20
Berry Bros. & Rudd
2021 Pagodes de Cos Blanc, Bordeaux2021 Pagodes de Cos Blanc, BordeauxBottle Price 75cl $498 -
2022 Blanc de Lynch-Bages, Bordeaux
The contribution of Muscadelle to this wine is unusually important. The Muscadelle vines are quite old, planted in 1988. This year’s weather conditions have given the fruit aromas of grape and elderflower instead of the peapod note it can sometimes deliver.
The wine is not especially mineral but has plenty of energy, if not the citrus edge of 2021. It is a wine for drinking early, with a fleshier and more exotic profile than usual. It was fermented and aged in barrel; with the new cellar facilitating temperature control for each individual barrel, the wine is well-composed and immediately attractive.
Sauvignon Blanc 67%; Sémillon 22%; Muscadelle 11%
Drink 2023 - 2029
Score: 17/20
Berry Bros. & Rudd (April 2023)
2022 Blanc de Lynch-Bages, Bordeaux2022 Blanc de Lynch-Bages, BordeauxBottle Price 75cl $558 -
2021 Berry Bros. & Rudd Good Ordinary White by Dourthe, Bordeaux
This was an outstanding vintage for white Bordeaux and our “GOW”, skilfully made by Dourthe. The nose is bright and aromatic, with notes of lime, flower, elderflower and green tea leaf. The palate brings exotic fruits, typical of its 100% Sauvignon Blanc makeup. Swathes of citrus and white peach lead to a zesty burst of acidity. No oak is used, allowing the crisp, mineral profile to speak for itself. This is perfect as an apéritif or with lighter fish or chicken dishes.
Georgina Haacke, Fine Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (June 2023)
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2002 Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux
The alcohol this vintage is 14%, while the residual sugar is 129.4 grams per litre, and the total acidity is 4.5 grams per litre of H2SO4.
Pale to medium gold coloured, the 2002 d'Yquem strides confidently out of the glass with forthright notions of spiced pears, baked pineapple, apricot preserves and orange blossoms with touches of graham crackers, praline, ginger nut and lemon curd. The palate lends an understated earthy/savoury character with seamless freshness and a satiny texture paving the long, perfumed finish.
Open-knit, expressive and yet still packing some primary fruit flavours, this vintage has entered its drinking window for those who love Yquem while it still possesses bags of vivacity. Five to seven more years in bottle should begin to yield more of the toffee, toasted nuts and savoury elements for those who love that more evolved phase.
Drink 2019 - 2040
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate (August 2019)
2002 Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, BordeauxSauternes2002 Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, BordeauxBottle Price 37.5cl $1,380 -
2017 Berry Bros. & Rudd Sauternes by Château Suduiraut
Pure nectar, this heavenly French dessert wine can be savoured on its own, or paired with fruit tarts such as apricot or duck liver parfait. With luscious flavours of apricots, honey, orange blossom and exotic candied fruits, harmonious citrusy acidity keeps everything in check. Serve chilled in your prettiest crystal, and this golden elixir will bring smiles all round.
Sam Wylie-Harris, IrishNews.com (December 2023)
Our Sauternes has been made by Château Suduiraut. This is an early-drinking style of Sauternes, with bright aromas of orange blossom and candied apricot. The palate is ripe and glossy, with flavours of quince and white peach along with sweet undertones of allspice, stem ginger and honey. The blend is led by Sémillon, bringing a balancing bite of citrus to the finish. You can enjoy it year-round, and it’s delicious with most hard or blue cheeses.
Georgina Haacke, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd