laying-down2019 Ornellaia, Bolgheri, Tuscany

Charred caramel and liquorice aromatics, with sappy acidity accompanying generous olive tapenade, blackberry and raspberry fruits on the opening beats. Deceptively silky tannins, they are tactile and supple at first then close in through the mid palate, revealing a more serious Ornellaia with layers of graphite, savoury cassis, sage, bay leaf, underbrush and white truffle spices. A touch of sweet salted caramel returns after half an hour in the glass, this is well structured and will be giving its best after five or six years in bottle, and for several decades. A hot dry summer followed by cooler weather during harvest has given finesse and complexity, and a wine to savour. All varieties are aged separately for 12 months then blended and then put back in barrel for 6 months, followed by 12 months in bottle. 70% new oak. Director Axel Heinz, oenologist Olga Fusari. Drink 2026 to 2044.

Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (March 2022)