2017 Meursault, Les Porusots, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

Poruzots is a vineyard quick to ripen and, in an early year like 2017, care is needed. Certainly the wine shows an opulent side in 2017 but the year’s in-built freshness pulls the finish together. A potentially garrulous wine that has learnt some self-awareness. Drink 2023-2029.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.