2012 Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, 1er Cru, Domaine Dujac, Burgundy

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru appears to be enduring an awkward adolescent phase. The aromatics feel a little disjointed, the fruit tucked away somewhere else, leaving tealeaf, bay leaf and nagging vegetal notes in their place - atypical for the style of this vintage. Alex Seysses told me that they had some reduction issues with this wine, possibly from the use of SO2 in the vineyard as they converted to organic, that dissipated but then returned.

The palate is much better and, I suspect, augurs for what is to come: filigree tannin, precise, mineral-driven, plenty of fresh and vibrant red fruit, impressive tension and vivacity on the pretty and pure finish. If you own bottles, I recommend cellaring for another three or four years, as I am sure the aromatics will return after this “dumb phase.”

Drink 2023 - 2038

Neil Martin, Vinous.com (March 2019)