2017 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Burgundy

Made from 2003 onwards. Two-thirds from Pernand high and minerally) and one-third from Aloxe upper slope in Les Languettes). Racked and back to barrel in August. Will spend several months in tank before bottling in May.Rich and creamy on the nose and fragrant with pure citrus fruit.

Rich, intense pure lemon fruit all tied in with a stony finesse. Ultra-mouth-watering tension and energy on the finish. Brilliant intensity and very direct at the moment. The fruit seems to back up in the mouth even after you have spat the wine, it backfills with intensity and runs forward with precision and mineral tension. Glorious wine all in embryo.

Drink 2025 - 2037

The proportions have changed again and in 2017 are in a 30/70% proportion from Les Renardes in Aloxe and En Charlemagne in Pernand.

A soaring, cool and pretty nose features notes of green apple, floral, mineral reduction and plenty of citrus elements. While the medium-weight flavours are not super-dense they still manage to convey evident power on the stony, bone-dry, and impressively complex, firm and persistent finish. Patience required.

Drink from 2029 onward

Colin has added more fruit on the Pernand side to this cuvée now about 70% of the total, with the other 30% from Aloxe-Corton--and the owner in Pernand lets him work all of his vines.

Bright, pale yellow-green. Nectarine and white peach aromas are lifted by lime and flowers and complicated by menthol, lavender and medicinal herbs. Very dense, fine-grained and concentrated but stands out more today for its structure and lift than for its body and size. This pungently aromatic wine really glistens and builds on the vibrant aftertaste.

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is showing especially well. As usual, it's a blend of fruit from Aloxe and Pernand, but Colin told me that he is now sourcing an additional parcel from Pernand, so the blend has changed. He also added that he is picking a touch later, seeking greater plenitude. The result is a very successful wine that unfurls in the glass with a classy bouquet of citrus oil, subtle spices, crisp green apple, nutmeg and beeswax. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with excellent concentration, racy acids and a chalky, phenolic finish. This might be Pierre-Yves Colin's finest Corton-Charlemagne to date.

Drink 2024 - 2050

There is now more wine from En Charlemagne two-thirds) whereas this cuvée used to be 50:50 with Les Languettes. Pale primrose, stern intensity, not too much reduction. All the steely stony intensity one would hope for, along with some lime notes, middleweight at first but with a little more concentration behind, excellent balance.

Wherever he makes white wine in Burgundy, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey does it with flair and sensitivity. This impressive Corton-Charlemagne marries fruit from mostly the Pernand side, with one-third from Les Languettes in Aloxe-Corton. Fermented in 350-litre barrels, 40% new, it has a winning combination of power, concentration and pithy minerality, with intensity that builds on the palate.

Drink 2020 - 2029