2013 Ao-Yun, Shangri-La, China

The first vintage of Ao Yun, now nine years old, showcasing melted tannins that cradle raspberry, red cherry and clove spices, with smoked tea and oyster shell on the finish. Overall long and drawn out with a finely balanced structure. The oak that was dominant in the early years is softer and more integrated, but there is a touch of dryness on the finish. The achievement here is immense, with winemaker Maxence Dulou successfully creating this from a location where everything had to be done by observation and trial-and-error, taking into account 500m of altitude variation between the four villages, and the hugely complex variations in exposure and terroir. Harvest September 20 Xidang Village at 2,100m) through to November 11 Adong Village, 2,600m). Aging took place in 40% new oak, 40% earth jar and 20% in stainless steel vats all located in a temporary cellar).

Drink 2022 to 2033.

Aromas of blackberry, blueberry and olives. Hints of bark and mushroom. Currants. Full body, ultra-fine tannins and a beautiful finish. A lovely dark fruit undertone. Minerally and very fine. Made of cabernet sauvignon with a touch of cabernet franc. This is 28 hectares in total. The vines have 10 years. It’s all handmade. Beautiful structure and depth. This is a wine that really impresses with all the finesse and quality of tannins. Goes on for minutes. Better in 2020 but so fine now.