laying-down2014 Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, Burgundy

Clear, bright and pale in colour, this combines majesty with discretion. It is a superbly floral offering with ethereal, lifted fruit. All the detail is there, with waves of flavour rolling across the palate, and so much concentration of fruit that the acidity is hidden. Fabulous Montrachet.

Frédéric Weber has taken over prime winemaking responsibilities from Philippe Prost. He shares with his predecessor the ability to talk eloquently about his wines, with an excellent knowledge of each terroir. One change here is the increasing use of whole bunches during fermentation, though more in the Côte de Nuits than Côte de Beaune this year. Overall, these are excellent wines.